Pacman Frog Care Guide: Difference between revisions

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Pacman Frogs should be housed '''individually''' to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of other tank mates. ''They will attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth'' - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be '''[[cannibalistic]]''', and will also consume other species of frogs.
Pacman Frogs should be housed '''individually''' to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of other tank mates. ''They will attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth'' - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be '''[[cannibalistic]]''', and will also consume other species of frogs.


When above ground, Pacmans tend to spend their time in their water bowl drinking, splashing, or defecating.
When above ground Pacmans will spend time in their water bowl, where they will both defecate and absorb water through specialized patches of skin on their body.


Wild Pacmans are known to brumate when temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep in their substrate, and stop eating or drinking until ideal conditions resume.<ref>https://reptilesmagazine.com/pacman-frog-not-eating/</ref>
Wild Pacmans will brumate when seasonal temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers of skin in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep into the substrate, and stop eating or drinking until moisture and warmth return to their environment.<ref>https://reptilesmagazine.com/pacman-frog-not-eating/</ref>


Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume its molted skin.
Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume molted skin.


==== Sexing ====
==== Sexing ====
Sexing Pacman Frogs can be challenging or impossible in younger individuals. Males are generally smaller than females and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Females may grow more than twice as large as males and are capable of laying hundreds of eggs while mating. [[Vocalization]] is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate. [[File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg|thumb|Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.|alt=|none]]
It can be challenging or impossible to sexing very young or juvenile Pacman Frogs. Males are generally smaller than females when fully grown and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Adult females may be more than twice as large as adult males and are capable of laying hundreds, or even thousands of eggs while mating. [[Vocalization]] is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate - though females may vocalize briefly when startled or agitated too. [[File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg|thumb|Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.|alt=|none]]
==== Species====
==== Species====
There are eight species of Horned Frogs<ref>Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (''Accessed'' ''April 18, 2024''). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/Amphibia/Anura/Ceratophryidae/Ceratophrys. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001</ref> and one common hybrid, including:
There are eight species of Horned Frogs<ref>Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (''Accessed'' ''April 18, 2024''). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/Amphibia/Anura/Ceratophryidae/Ceratophrys. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001</ref> and one common hybrid, including:
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==Care==
==Care==
Pacman Frogs require easy to moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life.
Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life.


For more specific information about health and common illnesses visit the [[Pacman Health]] guide.
For more specific information about health and common illnesses visit the [[Pacman Health]] guide.
=== Shopping List===
=== Shopping List===
When selecting a Pacman make sure that it is alert with clear eyes. The skin should be absent of blemishes. Observe it eating because if it is refusing food this could be an indication of an ill frog. Avoid any frogs that are bloated, lethargic, or presenting respiratory difficulties. If possible get a health history.
When selecting a Pacman make sure that it is alert with clear eyes. The skin should be absent of wounds, lacerations, and blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, or lethargic. If possible get a health history.
[[File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg|alt=Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT|thumb|Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/70681316 Sébastien SANT]]]
[[File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg|alt=Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT|thumb|Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/70681316 Sébastien SANT]]]


'''Required:'''
'''Required:'''
*20-gallon long aquarium, or 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) front-opening enclosure
*20-gallon long aquarium, or 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure
*Tight-fitting enclosure lid
*Tight-fitting enclosure lid
*[[Coco coir]], or other suitable [[substrate]]
*[[Coco coir]], or other suitable substrate
* LED light strip
*LED light strip
*Light fixture for [[Ceramic Heat Emitter]] ("CHE") or [[Deep Heat Projection]] ("DHP") bulb
*Light fixture for [[Ceramic Heat Emitter]] ("CHE") or [[Deep Heat Projection]] ("DHP") bulb
*Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
*Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
*Digital Thermostat (i.e., HerpStat by Spyder Robotics, Inkbird)
*Digital Thermostat (e.g., HerpStat by Spyder Robotics, Inkbird)
*Spray or misting bottle
*Spray or misting bottle
*Large, shallow water dish
*Large, shallow water dish
*Spring water, or tap [[water dechlorinator]]
*Spring water, or tap [[water dechlorinator]]
*A complete vitamin supplement (i.e., Repashy Calcium Plus)
*A complete vitamin supplement (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus)


''Recommended:''
''Recommended:''


*[[UVB light]] strip (i.e., Arcadia ShadeDweller)
*[[UVB light]] strip (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller Pro 7%)
*Analog or digital light timer
*Analog or digital light timer
*Live plants
*Live plants
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*Kitchen scale for weight tracking
*Kitchen scale for weight tracking
===Enclosure===
===Enclosure===
A 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) front-opening enclosure, or a 20-gallon long aquarium is suitable for a single adult female frog. A 20"x10"x12" 10-gallon aquarium is suitable for a single adult male frog. Adequate enclosures provide ample space for movement and burrowing. The enclosure should have a '''<u>tight-fitting lid</u>''' to prevent escape. Lids made of mesh, glass, or a combination of the two may be used to ensure adequate humidity is maintained.
A 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure, or a 20-gallon long aquarium is suitable for a single adult female frog. A 20"x10"x12" 10-gallon aquarium or larger is suitable for a single adult male frog. Adequate enclosures provide ample space for movement and burrowing. The enclosure should have a '''<u>tight-fitting lid</u>''' to prevent escape. Lids made of mesh, glass, or a combination of the two may be used to ensure adequate humidity is maintained.


====Features====
====Features====
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====Substrate====
====Substrate====
The enclosure should have 4-6 inches (10-15 cm). Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.
A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.


Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- '''<u>''should be avoided''</u>''' as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to [[impaction]].
Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- '''<u>''should be avoided''</u>''' as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to [[impaction]].
====Lighting====
====Lighting====
Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a [[12/12 cycle]]. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not needed if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.
Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a [[12/12 cycle]]. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.
==== Temperature====
==== Temperature====
Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, [[prolapse]], organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid [[desiccation]] or overheating.
Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, [[prolapse]], organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid [[desiccation]] or overheating.
Line 128: Line 128:
To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.
To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.
====Humidity====
====Humidity====
Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure daily and ensuring the substrate remains moist but not waterlogged. Substrate should feel wet to the touch, but release only a few drops of water if a handful is squeezed. Substrate should be mixed frequently (i.e., daily) to ensure even moisture distribution and prevent bacterial and fungal buildup.
Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure daily and ensuring the substrate remains moist but not waterlogged. Substrate should feel wet to the touch, but release only a few drops of water if a handful is squeezed. Substrate should be turned over and mixed frequently (i.e., daily) to ensure even moisture distribution and prevent anaerobic bacteria and/or fungus buildup.
==== Water Dish ====
==== Water Dish ====
The Pacman should be provided a large, shallow water dish. Pacmans cannot swim or climb very well making them prone to drowning. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. Hydration is crucial to their well-being. The water dish should be changed daily or when soiled, and refilled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or chemicals that are dangerous for the Pacman frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water are too pure and will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.
Pacman Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. Adult Pacmans cannot swim or climb very well and are prone to drowning. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed when it appears soiled, and at least daily. The water dish should only be filled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or other impurities that may be dangerous to the Pacman frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water should be avoided as they will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.


==== Hides ====
==== Hides ====
Pieces of hardwood or driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.
Pieces of hardwood, driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.
[[File:Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime 2.jpg|alt=Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime|thumb|Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/102689094 Damián Ganime]]]
[[File:Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime 2.jpg|alt=Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime|thumb|Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/102689094 Damián Ganime]]]


==== Plants ====
==== Plants ====
Sturdy plants, like Pothos, may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots (above or below the substrate level) to prevent the frog from digging them up.
Sturdy plants like Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots (above or below the substrate level) to prevent the frog from digging them up.


=== Cleaning ===
=== Cleaning ===
Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once a month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.
Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once per month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.


The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.
The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.


Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.
Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.
==Feeding & Supplementation==
==Feeding & Supplementation==
Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], silversides, and others. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins.
Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], silversides, and more. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins.


'''<u>''Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes.''</u>''' After consuming a large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.
'''<u>''Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes.''</u>''' After consuming a very large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.


For a complete list of appropriate feeders visit the [[Pacman Diet]] page.
For a complete list of appropriate feeders visit the [[Pacman Diet]] page.
Line 156: Line 156:


====Juveniles====
====Juveniles====
Juveniles (< 6 months old) should be fed daily -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.
Juvenile Pacman Frogs (< 6 months old) should be fed daily -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.
====Adults ====
====Adults ====
Feed adults 2-3 times a week, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.
Feed adult Pacman Frogs 2-3 times a week, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.


Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.
Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.

Revision as of 17:03, 17 May 2024

<tabber> |-|General Care=

Pacman Frog (Genus: Ceratophrys)

Description

Pacman Frog Care Guide
Argentine Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata)1.JPG
Common name Pacman Frog
Also known as

Horned Frog

Scientific name Genus Ceratophrys
Geographical distribution South America
Discovered 1824 (Wied-Neuwied)
Size 4-7 inches (10-18 cm)
Behavior
Care level Moderate
Minimum enclosure size 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm)
Substrate

Coco coir

Temperature

80-85°F (24-29°C)

Humidity 70-85%
Food
  • Crickets
  • Mealworms
  • Dubia roaches
  • Silversides
  • Occasional pinkie mice (optional)
Supplements
  • Calcium with D3
  • Multivitamin

The Pacman Frog (also known as the Horned Frog) is known for its round shape and large mouth resembling the video game character "Pac-Man". Native to South America, individuals of this genus are known for their distinct appearance and voracious appetites. In nature, Pacman Frogs are often found buried in leaf litter and soil, where they lie in wait for rainfall and passing prey.[1]

Appearance

Pacman Frogs average 4-7 inches (10-18 cm) in length as adults, making them one of the largest species of frogs kept in captivity.[2] Most species are available in a variety of colors, including green, yellow, brown, and red - often with distinctive markings. Their skin has a smooth, moist texture - and they possess a notably large mouth, which contributes to their characteristic "Pac-Man" appearance. With proper care, they can live 15 years or more in captivity.

Behavior

Pacman Frogs are nocturnal and fossorial.[3] They are mostly sedentary, and may remain motionless for extended periods while they wait for rainfall or to ambush prey.[4] They are not strong swimmers, climbers, or jumpers, and prefer to remain mostly buried, with only their eyes and a portion of their head above the soil.

Pacman Frogs should be housed individually to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of other tank mates. They will attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be cannibalistic, and will also consume other species of frogs.

When above ground Pacmans will spend time in their water bowl, where they will both defecate and absorb water through specialized patches of skin on their body.

Wild Pacmans will brumate when seasonal temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers of skin in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep into the substrate, and stop eating or drinking until moisture and warmth return to their environment.[5]

Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume molted skin.

Sexing

It can be challenging or impossible to sexing very young or juvenile Pacman Frogs. Males are generally smaller than females when fully grown and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Adult females may be more than twice as large as adult males and are capable of laying hundreds, or even thousands of eggs while mating. Vocalization is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate - though females may vocalize briefly when startled or agitated too.

File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg
Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.

Species

There are eight species of Horned Frogs[6] and one common hybrid, including:

Gallery

Care

Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life.

For more specific information about health and common illnesses visit the Pacman Health guide.

Shopping List

When selecting a Pacman make sure that it is alert with clear eyes. The skin should be absent of wounds, lacerations, and blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, or lethargic. If possible get a health history.

File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg
Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT

Required:

  • 20-gallon long aquarium, or 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure
  • Tight-fitting enclosure lid
  • Coco coir, or other suitable substrate
  • LED light strip
  • Light fixture for Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
  • Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
  • Digital Thermostat (e.g., HerpStat by Spyder Robotics, Inkbird)
  • Spray or misting bottle
  • Large, shallow water dish
  • Spring water, or tap water dechlorinator
  • A complete vitamin supplement (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus)

Recommended:

  • UVB light strip (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller Pro 7%)
  • Analog or digital light timer
  • Live plants
  • Hides (i.e., cork bark, driftwood, large stones, terra cotta pots or pieces, coconut huts)
  • Kitchen scale for weight tracking

Enclosure

A 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure, or a 20-gallon long aquarium is suitable for a single adult female frog. A 20"x10"x12" 10-gallon aquarium or larger is suitable for a single adult male frog. Adequate enclosures provide ample space for movement and burrowing. The enclosure should have a tight-fitting lid to prevent escape. Lids made of mesh, glass, or a combination of the two may be used to ensure adequate humidity is maintained.

Features

The enclosure should include

  • Substrate
  • Lighting
  • Heating (with a thermostat to monitor and control temperature)
  • Water dish
  • Hides
  • Live plants
File:Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa.jpg
Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa

Substrate

A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.

Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- should be avoided as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to impaction.

Lighting

Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a 12/12 cycle. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.

Temperature

Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, prolapse, organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid desiccation or overheating.

File:Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro.jpg
Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro
Heating

Use a deep heat projector ("DHP") or ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") connected to an automatic controller with a built-in thermostat to provide heat.

To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.

Humidity

Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure daily and ensuring the substrate remains moist but not waterlogged. Substrate should feel wet to the touch, but release only a few drops of water if a handful is squeezed. Substrate should be turned over and mixed frequently (i.e., daily) to ensure even moisture distribution and prevent anaerobic bacteria and/or fungus buildup.

Water Dish

Pacman Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. Adult Pacmans cannot swim or climb very well and are prone to drowning. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed when it appears soiled, and at least daily. The water dish should only be filled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or other impurities that may be dangerous to the Pacman frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water should be avoided as they will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.

Hides

Pieces of hardwood, driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.

File:Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime 2.jpg
Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime

Plants

Sturdy plants like Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots (above or below the substrate level) to prevent the frog from digging them up.

Cleaning

Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once per month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.

The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.

Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.

Feeding & Supplementation

Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, silversides, and more. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins.

Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes. After consuming a very large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.

For a complete list of appropriate feeders visit the Pacman Diet page.

File:Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata).jpg
Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget

Feeding schedule

Juveniles

Juvenile Pacman Frogs (< 6 months old) should be fed daily -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.

Adults

Feed adult Pacman Frogs 2-3 times a week, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.

Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.

References

  1. ↑ Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta. Herpetologica, 50(1), 51–64. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875
  2. ↑ https://reptilesmagazine.com/pac-man-frog-care-sheet/
  3. ↑ Julián Faivovich, Laura Nicoli, Boris L. Blotto, Martín O. Pereyra, Diego Baldo, J. Sebastián Barrionuevo, Marissa Fabrezi, Erik R. Wild, Célio F.B. Haddad "Big, Bad, and Beautiful: Phylogenetic Relationships of the Horned Frogs (Anura: Ceratophryidae)," South American Journal of Herpetology, 9(3), 207-227, (1 December 2014)
  4. ↑ Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta. Herpetologica, 50(1), 51–64. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875
  5. ↑ https://reptilesmagazine.com/pacman-frog-not-eating/
  6. ↑ Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (Accessed April 18, 2024). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/Amphibia/Anura/Ceratophryidae/Ceratophrys. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001

|-|Diet Guide=

Feeding & Supplementation

Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins. Prey items such as fish, mammals, reptiles and avians should be frozen beforehand to eliminate any parasites. If breeding colonies are established with proper care and treatment the 2nd or 3rd generations can be offered without being frozen.


Avoid larger feeders to prevent impaction. Do NOT feed live rodents or avian as you risk your frog being injured. Frozen prey is recommended to avoid risk of parasites.

Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes. After consuming a large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.

Feeders

Insects

  • Banded Crickets (Gryllodes sigillatus)
  • Black Crickets (Gryllus bimaculatus)
  • Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Hermetia illucens)
  • Blue Bottle Fly (Calliphora vomitoria)
  • Dermestid Beetles (Dermestes ater, Dermestes lardarius, Dermestes maculatus)
  • Discoid Roaches (Blaberus discoidalis)
  • Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia)
  • Flightless Fruit Flies (Drosophila hydei)
  • Giant Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)
  • Butterworms (Chilecomadia moorei)
  • Hornworms (Manduca sexta)
  • Nightcrawlers (Lumbricus terrestris)
  • Phoenix Worms (Hermetia illucens)
  • Red Runner Roaches (Periplaneta lateralis / Shelfordella lateralis / Blatta lateralis)
  • Silkworms (Bombyx mori)
  • Superworms (Zophobas mori)
  • Waxworms (Achroia grisella / Galleria mellonella)
  • Bean Beetles (Callosobruchus maculatus)

Fish

  • Silversides (Menidia menidia)
  • Guppies (Poecilia reticulata)
  • Common Molly (Poecilia sphenops)
  • Southern Platy Fish (Xiphophorus maculatus)
  • Variatus Platy / Variable Platy (Xiphophorus variatus)
  • Greater Amberjack (Seriola dumerili)
  • Ayu (Plecoglossus altivelis)
  • Great Barracuda (Sphyraena barracuda)
  • Largemouth Bass (Micropterus salmoides)
  • Northern Rock Bass (Ambloplites rupestris)
  • Northern Smallmouth Bass (Micropterus dolomieu)
  • Bloater (Coregonus hoyi)
  • Bluegill (Lepomis macrochirus)
  • Lake Herring Cisco (Coregonus artedi)
  • Atlantic Cod (Gadus morhua)
  • Black Crappie (Pomoxis nigromaculatus)
  • Atlantic Croaker (Micropogonias undulatus)
  • Spot Croaker (Leiostomus xanthurus)
  • Cunner (Tautogolabrus adspersus)
  • Piked Dogfish (Squalus acanthias)
  • American Eel (Anguilla rostrata)
  • Common Eel (Anguilla anguilla)
  • Winter Flounder / Lemon Sole Flounder (Pseudopleuronectes americanus)
  • Yellowtail Flounder (Pleuronectes ferruginea)
  • Longnose Gar (Lepisosteus osseus)
  • Glasseye (Heteropriacanthus cruentatus)
  • Haddock (Melanogrammus aeglefinus)
  • Largehead Hairtail (Trichiurus lepturus)
  • Hake (Urophycis)
  • Silver Hake (Merluccius bilinearis)
  • Atlantic Halibut (Hippoglossus hippoglossus)
  • Kawakawa (Euthynnus affinis)
  • Southern Kingfish (Menticirrhus americanus)
  • Inshore Lizardfish (Synodus foetens)
  • Atlantic Mackerel (Scomber scombrus)
  • Atlantic Blue Marlin (Makaira nigricans)
  • Mullet (Mugil)
  • European Perch (Perca fluviatilis)
  • Ocean Perch /Redfish Perch (Sebastes marinus)
  • Yellow Perch (Perca flavescens)
  • Northern Pike (Esox lucius)
  • American Plaice (Hippoglossides atessoides)
  • European Plaice (Pleuonectes platessa)
  • Saithe Pollock (Pollachius)
  • Pumpkinseed (Lepomis gibbosus)
  • Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar)
  • Coho Salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutch)
  • Mackerel Scad (Decapterus pinnulatus)
  • Yellowtail Scad (Atule mate)
  • Southern Porgy Scup (Stenotomus chrysops)
  • Hardhead Sea Catfish (Ariopsis felis)
  • Black Seabass (Centropristis striata)
  • Searobin (Prionotus)
  • Sand Seatrout (Cynoscion arenarius)
  • Silver Seatrout (Cynoscion nothus)
  • Skate (raja / raia)
  • Pond Smelt (Hypomesus olidus)
  • Blotcheye Soldierfish (Myripristis berndti)
  • Common Sole / Dover Sole / Black Sole (Solea solea)
  • European Sprat (Sprattus sprattus)
  • Eyestripe Surgeonfish (Acanthurus dussumieri)
  • Blackfish Tautog (Tautoga onitis)
  • Tilapia (various)
  • Brown Trout (Salmo trutta)
  • Lake Trout (Salvelinus namaycush)
  • Rainbow Trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)

Mammals

  • House Mouse (Mus musculus)
  • Norway Rat (Rattus norvegicus)
  • African Soft Fur Rat (Mastomys natalensis)
  • Dwarf Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovski)
  • Campbell’s Dwarf Russian Hamster (Phodopus campbelli)
  • Syrian (Golden) Hamster Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus)
  • Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
  • Chinese Hamster Hamster (Cricetus griseus)
  • Mongolian Gerbil (Meriones unguiculatus)

Reptiles

  • Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis)
  • Brown Anole (Anolis sagrei)

Avian

  • Chicks
  • Common Quail Chick (Coturnix coturnix)

These are acceptable for adults once a month, but not required.

Foods to avoid

  • Goldfish
  • Red Wigglers
  • Minnows
  • Beef
  • Pork
  • Cooked Chicken
  • Plant-based Frog Food
  • Fish or other animals high in thiaminase

Feeding schedule

Juveniles

Juveniles (< 6 months old) should be fed daily -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin.

Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.

Adults

Feed adults 2-3 times a week, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition. Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.

|-|Health Guide=

Supplementation

All prey items should be dusted with a calcium supplement with Vitamin D3, and rotated each feeding with a multivitamin supplement to ensure a balanced diet. An appropriate multivitamin should also be provided. Carotenoid can be provided to make the appearance of the coloration to be more vibrant, but it is not necessary.

Calcium

Calcium is essential in developing a healthy skeletal system and preventing Metabolic Bone Disease. MBD leads to death. Select a calcium supplement that comes with Vitamin D3 and is phosphorus free. Finely-ground powder can be used to dust feeders. A Calcium and vitamin D3 powder should be applied every feeding.

Multivitamins

Multivitamins should be offered once a week. It should include Vitamin A, Niacin, Vitamin K, Beta Carotene, and others.

Vitamin A

A Vitamin A supplement should be offered once a month. Vitamin A can build up in the body quickly and lead to a condition known as Vitamin A Toxicity if provided too often.

Carotenoid

Use once a week to enhance the vibrancy of colors and patterns of Pacmans.[1]

Health

The primary recommendation for health issues is to visit an exotic veterinarian. Before acquiring any exotic or non-traditional animal a local exotic veterinarian that specializes in the animal should be located and an appointment should be scheduled for a health examination. Be aware many exotic veterinarians are not available 24/7. It is recommended to try to locate one that is, if possible.

Healthy Indicators

  • A regular feeding and defecation routine
  • Clear, bright eyes
  • Absence of mites
  • A round body
  • Strong, smooth jaw line
  • Ability to latch onto prey
  • Smooth, symmetrical scales

Keeping a tracking journal will make identifying a frog that is beginning to experience illnesses or afflictions simpler as well as help the exotic veterinarian identify health issues. The journal should include things such as dates, feeding, defecation, feeder refusal, feeders, shedding, supplement/dusting, irregular behavior, shedding, changes in environment, medical soaks, cleanings, cleaning supplies, water type, and anything else that can be catalogued.

Signs of Illness

There are several signs that your frog may be experiencing health issues and the following are indicators to look out for (this is not an exhaustive list).

Lack of Appetite

Pacman frogs have a healthy appetite and is a contributor to the reason that Pacman frogs received the nickname. Lack of appetite is an early indicator for many health issues. Reduction in appetite should indicate that the health of the Pacman should be examined.

Recommendations
  • Ensure that temperature and humidity are at the required levels.
  • Adequate lighting exposure/appropriate nutrition and supplements
  • Changes in environment can cause stress. If changes have been made the frog should be allowed to acclimate.
  • Adequate hiding spots should be provided.
  • A diluted unflavored Pedialyte bath.
Unflavored Pedialyte Bath
  1. 2 Drops of Unflavored Pedialyte to 1 quart of clean, dechlorinated, fresh water
  2. Place the frog in the mixture up to the bottom part of its chin for 20-30 minutes.

The electrolytes help the frog recover as the Pacman will absorb them through its' skin.[2]

Humidity & Temperature

The first thing you should examine is the humidity and temperature of the enclosure. The humidity should be around 70% to 85% and temperatures should be in the 80° to 85° range. If these are not at the appropriate range adjust those factors to be in the appropriate range. Digital thermometers and hygrometers are preferred as analog is not as accurate as well as prone to widely inaccurate measurements.

UVA/UVB Lighting, Vitamin D3, & Calcium

A lack of Calcium and Vitamin D3 can lead to improper digestion and a poor skeletal system. UVA/UVB lighting helps in the production of Vitamin D3 which is needed for calcium absorption. UVA/UVB lighting or the correct calcium and Vitamin D3 supplements leads to a healthy appetite, increased activity levels, and good digestion. Poor calcium intake can lead to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).

Stress

When a frog is stressed out it can lead to a lack of appetite. Frequently when a frog is introduced to a new environment or new features into its enclosure this can impact its hunger. When a frog is experiencing this situation it should be left to its own devices until it is acclimated. Attempting to force feed and/or digging up the frog could stress it out more and should be avoided.

Runny or Discolored Stool

Runny Stool

If a Pacman frog has runny stool this is typically a sign of an insufficient diet or internal parasites. If there is access to an exotic veterinarian that specializes in amphibians it is recommended to take a fecal sample of the runny stool for analysis. An analysis is a diagnostic tool that can be used to identify parasites. This will result in the veterinarian prescribing medication that can be used in the elimination of said parasites.

Discolored Stool

Discolored stool is indicative of digestive issues and/or a poor diet. If possible a stool sample should be taken to an exotic veterinarian for diagnostic tests and if required future appointments. The frog may require a radical change in diet.

Recommendations

A varied diet with the appropriate vitamins and supplements should be provided to assist in preventing runny and discolored stool. Typically runny or discolored stool is indicative of internal parasites and as such should result in a visit to an exotic veterinarian.

Unable to Latch onto Prey, Drooping Jaw

If the frog is having difficult times latching on to prey and/or a drooping draw this is a likely indicator of Metabolic Bone Disease. MBD leads to deformed bones, brittle bones, and death.

Recommendations

Visit a veterinarian immediately.

Abscesses on Limbs

As Pacman are fossorial they tend to remain buried for exceptionally long periods. Due to being in a constantly moist environment they are susceptible to developing abscesses on their legs, increasingly so their hind legs. In most cases, but not all, these abscesses are not something to be concerned about, however, they should be monitored. Changes in size and/or color should result in the caretaker scheduling an appointment with a specialized veterinarian. The veterinarian may determine that antibiotics need to be prescribed.

Recommendations

Maintaining a clean environment can help prevent abscesses. Supplying clean fresh dechlorinated or spring water and changing out the substrate monthly (minimum) or when it is heavily soiled helps in the prevention or exacerbation of abscesses. If the terrarium is odorous the enclosure should be disinfected as well as replacing the water and substrate.

Dry Skin Cocoon

When the terrarium has humidity levels that are too low and/or there is a lack of clean water the Pacman frog may wrap itself in a dry outer layer. The action is to retain moisture and keep the inner layer of skin moist to survive dry periods. If this dry period continues the Pacman frog will become desiccated and perish.

Recommendations

The Pacman frog should always have access to clean, fresh water. The water bowl should be changed out, at a minimum, daily. A hygrometer should be used in the enclosure to monitor humidity levels. A mister with controls is suggested. If you have issues maintaining the correct humidity level in the air ensuring the substrate is at a 70% humidity level will suffice. As the Pacman is fossorial it will be in the substrate and will be provided with the appropriate moisture. In this case the hygrometer should be touching the substrate or slightly in the substrate.

Film Over Eyes

If there appears to be a milky, cloudy film on one or both eyes this could be an indicator of serious afflictions. It could also be an indicator of insufficient moisture levels, unsanitary water, and/or a fatty diet. An excess of fat can lead to lipids building up over the eyes.

Recommendations

Pacman should be offered clean water at all times as well as high quality feeders that are not high in fat content.

Toxic Out Syndrome

Pacman frogs absorb water through their skin and their urinary bladders. If the water utilized has high presence of ammonia or other toxins the frog will "tox out" or "toxing out". If not addressed immediately the frog will pass in a few days.

Signs of Toxing Out
Recommendations

Immediately replace the water with dechlorinated or spring water. Water should be replaced every couple of hours until improvement in the frog's condition is observed. Substrate should also be replaced as the chemicals from the previously used water may have leeched into the substrate. Odorous substrate can be an indicator of ammonia buildup within the substrate from fecal waste.[3]

A specialized veterinarian should be sought in severe cases.

Redness on the Belly or Bottom of Hind Legs

Redness on the belly or bottom of hind leges is indicative of a bacterial infection on the underside of the legs and abdomen. This is caused by a soiled and/or contaminated enclosure.

Symptoms
Recommendations

If the frog is suspected of having Red Leg Syndrome a veterinarian should be sought out. The veterinarian will most likely perform blood tests to identify the bacteria. Once the bacteria is identified the veterinarian will evaluate the liver and other organs and typically will prescribe antibiotics.

Keeping the enclosure and water sanitary and clean will help prevent Red Leg Syndrome.

Loss of Appetite, No Stool, and Hard Lump in Belly

Another possible cause of a lack of appetite could be impaction. Impaction can also result in a lack of bowel movements and/or a hard lump in the belly. A hard lump on the right side of the body is typically impaction.

Impaction is a blockage in the digestive system from when a frog swallows something it cannot digest. In Pacman this could by improper substrates such as sphagnum moss, bark, or chips. This is why fine substrate is a must as if it is accidentally swallowed it can be passed. Impaction can lead to death, especially if not addressed immediately.

Recommendations

Seek a veterinarian immediately.

Honey Soaks
  1. Prepare a dechlorinated bath with a few drops of organic, raw honey or manuka honey.
  2. Water level should reach to bottommost part of chin.
  3. Stir bath until honey is dissolved.
  4. Bath should be heated to around 80° to 85°
  5. Gently massage the afflicted side in small circles to help stimulate defecation
  6. Allow for a 20 minute soak.
  7. Repeat twice a day.

Obesity

Just like humans Pacman frogs can become obese, especially if they have a diet high in fats. As Pacman frogs naturally have a chubby look it is more difficult to identify obesity. Obesity is something that is not a concern for juveniles as they are still growing.

  • More time spent hiding
  • Drinking less
  • Weight loss
  • Discolored skin
  • Swollen joints
  • Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
Recommendations

Feeders high in fat, such as pinky mice and waxworms, should be fed sparingly and in moderation. Pacman should not be fed a diet of just one or a few items, but a varied and balanced diet to prevent obesity and ensure the appropriate nutritional needs are met.

If there are concerns of obesity seek a veterinarian. The veterinarian will utilize age and size as a basis to determine obesity as well as perform blood analysis to determine the fatty content of the Pacman's liver.

Pacman frogs should have regular visits with a specialized reptile/amphibian veterinarian to ensure a healthy lifestyle.

Afflictions

Skin

The most common infections present in Pacman are bacterial and fungal infections of the skin and eyes. If Pacman are not kept in the sanitary, moist, and warm conditions that are required they are susceptible to becoming infected.

Signs
  • Redness
  • Swelling
  • Pus
  • Abrasions
  • Ulcers
  • Patches/Wounds on Skin
  • Lethargy
  • Appetite Loss
Recommendations

Visit a reptile/amphibian specialist for treatment. Topical or systemic medications will be prescribed and the enclosure setup and parameters should be reviewed.

Parasites

Mites

Mites can be identified by the observation of miniature red-brown spots around the mouth, pits, and eyes as well as under scales.

Recommendation

See an exotic veterinarian who can identify the parasite(s) and prescribe the appropriate treatment.


When mites are present the room and enclosure need to be sterilized. All substrate should be disposed of. It should be sealed and removed from the building. The enclosure and room, preferably the entire structure, should be vacuumed. Vacuuming will get loose eggs, mites, and mite feces.[4]


Soaking the frog in consecutive fresh baths can assist in eliminating the mites as they will drown. Ensure you are pouring water over the frog's back gently.


Draw a 80º-85º F bath that will reach the bottom of the Pacman's chin. The bath should be diluted with Betadine. Enough betadine should be present that the color is the shade of medium tea. Before placing the afflicted frog in the Betadine bath it should be placed in a dechlorinated bath to allow it to drink some fresh water. Once that is completed transfer the Pacman to the Betadine bath. Gently pour the Betadine water over the Pacman being sure to avoid the eyes. If the Pacman defecates in the pool change it out. Once the bath is completed place the Pacman in a dry warm area while the enclosure is treated. While waiting for the enclosure to be treated a soft cloth that had been saturated in the diluted Betadine mixture should be run around the joints, legs, body, pits, and folds of skin. Use a cotton-tipped swab to apply the mixture around the eyes and nose making sure to not apply it to the nose and eyes. Afterwards allow the Pacman to soak in fresh, dechlorinated, warm water, while gently rinsing the frog to remove any remaining Betadine, taking great care to not pour water into the eyes or nose. If the enclosure has not finished being sterilized and renewed keep the frog in a temporary environment that has the correct heating and humidity. Continue repeating the baths until the mite infestation has been eradicated.[5]


Another option is preparing a gallon solution of Melafix per the manufacturer's instructions. Use the solution for the afflicted frog's bath. Mites will drown and the Melafix will assist in preventing infections of the wound and promote healing.[6]


Pay close attention for 2-6 weeks after initial treatment to confirm that the mites have been eliminated.

Respiratory

Wheezing, lethargy, and drooling can be caused by lower than necessary humidity levels. Pacman are not built to handle dry air. Dry conditions can lead to severe illness.

Ammonia Poisoning

Ammonia poisoning is typically a result of poor enclosure conditions, specifically poor feces removal. High ammonia levels can lead to Toxic Out Syndrome.

Bloating Disease

If the Pacman has a bloated look from the accumulation of fluid under the skin. Seek out a veterinarian immediately. They may prescribe antibiotics, make micro incisions to release water, or other treatments. </tabber>

  1. ↑ Dietary Supplements for a Pacman Frog: Pacman Frog Care 101 https://pacmanfrogcare101.com/dietary-supplements/#:~:text=Repashy%20SuperPig%20is%20a%20Carotenoid,easily%20absorbs%20in%20the%20body.
  2. ↑ https://pacmanfrogcare101.com/unhealthy-pacman-frog/#:~:text=Put%20a%20couple%20drops%20of,the%20PacMan%20frog%20recover%20quicker.
  3. ↑ Reptile Magazine Amphibian Diseases: Toxing Out https://reptilesmagazine.com/amphibian-diseases-toxing-out/
  4. ↑ Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care Collection https://anapsid.org/mites.html
  5. ↑ Melissa Kaplans Herp Collection: Treating the Reptileshttps://www.anapsid.org/mites.html#reptile
  6. ↑ Prolific Hobbyist Frog Forum https://www.frogforum.net/showthread.php/23735-Mites-(?p=182496&viewfull=1#post182496
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