Pacman Frog Care Guide: Difference between revisions

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<tabber>
|-|General Care=
==='''<big>Pacman Frog (Genus: ''Ceratophrys'')</big>'''===
==='''<big>Pacman Frog (Genus: ''Ceratophrys'')</big>'''===

====Description====
{{Animal infobox
{{Animal infobox
|name=Pacman Frog
|name=Pacman Frog
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|food=''
|food=''
*Crickets
*Crickets
*Mealworms
*Dubia roaches
*Dubia roaches
*Silversides
*Silversides
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*Multivitamin
*Multivitamin
}}
}}
====Description====
The Pacman Frog (also known as the Horned Frog) is known for its round shape and large mouth resembling the video game character "Pac-Man". Native to South America, individuals of this genus are known for their distinct appearance and voracious appetites. In nature, Pacman Frogs are often found buried in [[leaf litter]] and soil, where they lie in wait for rainfall and passing prey.<ref>Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). [https://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875 Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta]. ''Herpetologica'', ''50''(1), 51–64. <nowiki>http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875</nowiki></ref>
The Pacman Frog, also known as the Horned Frog, is known for its round shape and large mouth, which resembles the iconic video game character "Pac-Man". Native to South America, individuals of this genus are known for their distinct appearance and voracious appetites. In nature Pacman Frogs are often found buried in [[leaf litter]] and soil, where they lie in wait for rainfall and passing prey.<ref>Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta. ''Herpetologica'', ''50''(1), 51–64. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875</ref>


====Appearance====
====Appearance====
Pacman Frogs average 4-7 inches (10-18 cm) in length as adults, making them one of the largest species of frogs kept in captivity.<ref>https://reptilesmagazine.com/pac-man-frog-care-sheet/</ref> Most species are available in a variety of colors, including green, yellow, brown, and red - often with distinctive markings. Their skin has a smooth, moist texture - and they possess a notably large mouth, which contributes to their characteristic "Pac-Man" appearance. With proper care, they can live 15 years or more in captivity.
Pacman Frogs average 4-7 inches (10-18 cm) in length as adults, making them one of the largest species of frogs commonly kept in captivity.<ref>Willard, Joshua 2011. Pac Man Frog Care Sheet. Reptiles Magazine.https://reptilesmagazine.com/pac-man-frog-care-sheet/</ref> Most species are available in a variety of colors, including green, yellow, brown, and red - each with unique markings. They are distinguished by the size of their mouth, which is very large in proportion to their body.


====Behavior ====
====Behavior ====
Pacman Frogs are '''[[nocturnal]]''' and '''[[fossorial]].'''<ref>Julián Faivovich, Laura Nicoli, Boris L. Blotto, Martín O. Pereyra, Diego Baldo, J. Sebastián Barrionuevo, Marissa Fabrezi, Erik R. Wild, Célio F.B. Haddad "[https://bioone.org/journals/south-american-journal-of-herpetology/volume-9/issue-3/SAJH-D-14-00032.1/Big-Bad-and-Beautiful--Phylogenetic-Relationships-of-the-Horned/10.2994/SAJH-D-14-00032.1.short Big, Bad, and Beautiful: Phylogenetic Relationships of the Horned Frogs (Anura: Ceratophryidae)]," South American Journal of Herpetology, 9(3), 207-227, (1 December 2014) </ref> They are mostly sedentary, and may remain motionless for extended periods while they wait for rainfall or to ambush prey.<ref>Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). [https://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875 Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta]. ''Herpetologica'', ''50''(1), 51–64. <nowiki>http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875</nowiki></ref> They are not strong swimmers, climbers, or jumpers, and prefer to remain mostly buried, with only their eyes and a portion of their head above the soil.
Pacman Frogs are '''[[nocturnal]]''' and '''[[fossorial]].'''<ref>Julián Faivovich, Laura Nicoli, Boris L. Blotto, Martín O. Pereyra, Diego Baldo, J. Sebastián Barrionuevo, Marissa Fabrezi, Erik R. Wild, Célio F.B. Haddad "[https://bioone.org/journals/south-american-journal-of-herpetology/volume-9/issue-3/SAJH-D-14-00032.1/Big-Bad-and-Beautiful--Phylogenetic-Relationships-of-the-Horned/10.2994/SAJH-D-14-00032.1.short Big, Bad, and Beautiful: Phylogenetic Relationships of the Horned Frogs (Anura: Ceratophryidae)]," South American Journal of Herpetology, 9(3), 207-227, (1 December 2014) </ref> They are mostly sedentary and may remain motionless for extended periods while they wait for rainfall or to ambush prey.<ref>Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta. ''Herpetologica'', ''50''(1), 51–64. [https://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875 http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875]</ref> They are not strong swimmers, climbers, or jumpers, and prefer to remain almost entirely buried, with only their eyes and a portion of their head above the soil.


Pacman Frogs should be housed '''individually''' to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of other tank mates. ''They will attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth'' - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be '''[[cannibalistic]]''', and will also consume other species of frogs.
Pacman Frogs should be housed '''individually''' to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of tank mates. ''They may attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth'' - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be '''[[cannibalistic]]''', and will consume individuals of their species as well as other species of frogs.


When above ground Pacmans will spend time in their water bowl, where they will both defecate and absorb water through specialized patches of skin on their body.
While above ground, Pacman frogs will spend time soaking in their water bowl where they will both defecate and absorb water through specialized patches of skin on their body.


Wild Pacmans will brumate when seasonal temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers of skin in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep into the substrate, and stop eating or drinking until moisture and warmth return to their environment.<ref>https://reptilesmagazine.com/pacman-frog-not-eating/</ref>
Wild Pacmans may brumate when seasonal temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers of skin in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep into the substrate, and stop eating or drinking until moisture and warmth return to their environment.<ref>Wissman, Margaret A. 2011. Pacman Frog Not Eating. ''Reptiles Magazine''. https://reptilesmagazine.com/pacman-frog-not-eating/</ref>


Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume molted skin.
Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume molted skin.


==== Sexing ====
==== Sexing ====
It can be challenging or impossible to sexing very young or juvenile Pacman Frogs. Males are generally smaller than females when fully grown and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Adult females may be more than twice as large as adult males and are capable of laying hundreds, or even thousands of eggs while mating. [[Vocalization]] is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate - though females may vocalize briefly when startled or agitated too. [[File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg|thumb|Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.|alt=|none]]
It can be challenging or impossible to identify the sex of young or juvenile Pacman Frogs. Males are generally smaller than females when fully grown and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Adult females may be more than twice as large as adult males and are capable of laying hundreds, if not thousands of eggs while mating. [[Vocalization]] is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate - though females may vocalize briefly when startled or agitated too. [[File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg|thumb|Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.|alt=|none]]
==== Species====
==== Species====
There are eight species of Horned Frogs<ref>Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (''Accessed'' ''April 18, 2024''). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/Amphibia/Anura/Ceratophryidae/Ceratophrys. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001</ref> and one common hybrid, including:
There are eight species of Horned Frogs and three hybrids <ref>Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (''Accessed'' ''April 18, 2024''). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/Amphibia/Anura/Ceratophryidae/Ceratophrys. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. [https://Doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001 doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001]</ref>, including:


*''[[Ceratophrys aurita]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys aurita]]''
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*''[[Ceratophrys joazeirensis]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys joazeirensis]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys ornata]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys ornata]]''
*''[[Fantasy Pacman Frog|Ceratophrys hybrid]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys stolzmanni]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys stolzmanni]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys testudo]]''
*''[[Ceratophrys testudo]]''
Hybrids:


* ''[[Fantasy Pacman Frog|Ceratophrys "Fantasy"]]'' (''cranwelli x cornuta'')
====Gallery====
* ''Ceratophrys "Green Apple" (cranwelli x joazeirensis)''
<gallery style="text-align:center" widths="350" spacing="small" captionsize="large" bordersize="medium" perrow="3">
File:Cornuta.png|''[[Ceratophrys cornuta]]''
* ''Ceratophrys "Orwell" (cranwelli x ornata)''
File:Cranwelli.png|''[[Ceratophrys cranwelli]]''
File:Fantasy.png|''[[Fantasy Pacman Frog|Ceratophrys cranwelli x cornuta'' "Fantasy]]"
File:Ornata-2.png|''[[Ceratophrys ornata]]''
File:Stolzmanni.png|''[[Ceratophrys stolzmanni]]''
</gallery>


==Care==
==Care==
[[File:Pacman Frog Care Image 4.0.jpg|alt=Cheat sheet for some of the most important aspects of care. Is not all encompassing.|thumb|Cheat sheet for some of the most important aspects of care. Is not all encompassing. ]]
Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life.
Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life. With proper care, they can live 15 years or more in captivity.


=== Shopping list===
For more specific information about health and common illnesses visit the [[Pacman Health]] guide.

=== Shopping List===
==== Selecting a healthy frog ====
When selecting a Pacman make sure that it is alert with clear eyes. The skin should be absent of wounds, lacerations, and blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, or lethargic. If possible get a health history.
When selecting a Pacman frog, check to ensure it is alert and that the eyes are clear, without visible infection or cataracts. The skin should be free of any wounds, lacerations, or blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, lethargic, or unresponsive to stimuli.
[[File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg|alt=Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT|thumb|Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/70681316 Sébastien SANT]]]


'''Required:'''
'''Required:'''
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*[[Coco coir]], or other suitable substrate
*[[Coco coir]], or other suitable substrate
*LED light strip
*LED light strip
*Light fixture for [[Ceramic Heat Emitter]] ("CHE") or [[Deep Heat Projection]] ("DHP") bulb
*Light fixture for [[Ceramic Heat Emitter]] ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
*Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb [[File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg|alt=Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT|thumb|Amazonian Horned Frog ''Ceratophrys cornuta'' (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/70681316 Sébastien SANT]]]
*Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
*Digital Thermostat (e.g., HerpStat by Spyder Robotics, Inkbird)
*Digital Thermostat (e.g., HerpStat, Inkbird)
*Spray or misting bottle
*Spray or misting bottle
*Large, shallow water dish
*Large, shallow water dish
*Spring water, or tap [[water dechlorinator]]
*Spring water, or tap [[water dechlorinator]]
*A complete vitamin supplement (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus)
*A complete vitamin supplement (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus)

''Recommended:''
''Recommended:''


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====Substrate====
====Substrate====
A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.
A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have about 3 inches inches (~8 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.


Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- '''<u>''should be avoided''</u>''' as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to [[impaction]].
Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- '''<u>''should be avoided''</u>''' as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to [[impaction]].
====Lighting====
====Lighting====
Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a [[12/12 cycle]]. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.
Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a consistent day/night cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.
==== Temperature====
==== Temperature====
Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, [[prolapse]], organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid [[desiccation]] or overheating.
Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, [[prolapse]], organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid [[desiccation]] or overheating.
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===== Heating =====
===== Heating =====
Use a deep heat projector ("DHP") or ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") connected to an automatic controller with a built-in thermostat to provide heat.
Use a deep heat projector ("DHP") or ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") connected to an automatic controller with a built-in thermostat to provide heat.

[[File:Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata).jpg|alt=Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget|thumb|Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget]]


To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.
To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.
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Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.
Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.
==Feeding & Supplementation==
Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], silversides, and more. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins.


'''<u>''Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes.''</u>''' After consuming a very large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.


====Gallery====
For a complete list of appropriate feeders visit the [[Pacman Diet]] page.
<gallery style="text-align:center" widths="250" spacing="small" captionsize="large" bordersize="medium" perrow="2">
[[File:Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata).jpg|alt=Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget|thumb|Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget]]
File:Cornuta.png|''[[Ceratophrys cornuta]]''

File:Cranwelli.png|''[[Ceratophrys cranwelli]]''
=== Feeding schedule ===
File:Fantasy.png|''[[Fantasy Pacman Frog|Ceratophrys cranwelli x cornuta'' "Fantasy]]"

File:Ornata-2.png|''[[Ceratophrys ornata]]''
====Juveniles====
File:Stolzmanni.png|''[[Ceratophrys stolzmanni]]''
Juvenile Pacman Frogs (< 6 months old) should be fed daily -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.
</gallery>
====Adults ====
Feed adult Pacman Frogs 2-3 times a week, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.

Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.

==References==
<references />

|-|Diet Guide=
==Feeding & Supplementation==
==Feeding & Supplementation==
Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins. Prey items such as fish, mammals, reptiles and avians should be frozen beforehand to eliminate any parasites. If breeding colonies are established with proper care and treatment the 2nd or 3rd generations can be offered without being frozen.
Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides.


Feeders should always be dusted with calcium to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease and hypocalcemia. If UVB is not being offered, feeders should be dusted with supplement powder containing Vitamin D3, such as Repashy Calcium Plus.


Avoid larger feeders to prevent impaction. Do '''<u>''NOT''</u>''' feed live rodents or avian as you risk your frog being injured. Frozen prey is recommended to avoid risk of parasites.
Feeders with hard exoskeletons, such as crickets and mealworms, should be fed occasionally - not as staples. Avoid larger feeders to prevent impaction. Avoid feeding live rodents or avians to prevent injury to the frog. Frozen (and later thawed) prey items are recommended to avoid risk of parasites.


'''<u>''Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes.''</u>''' After consuming a large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.
'''<u>''Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes.''</u>''' After consuming a large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.

===Feeders===
====Insects====
*Banded Crickets (''Gryllodes sigillatus)''
*Black Crickets (''Gryllus bimaculatus'')
*Black Soldier Fly Larvae (''Hermetia illucens'')
*Blue Bottle Fly (''Calliphora vomitoria)''
*Dermestid Beetles (''Dermestes ater'', ''Dermestes lardarius'', ''Dermestes maculatus'')
*Discoid Roaches (''Blaberus discoidalis'')
*Dubia Roaches (''Blaptica dubia'')
*[[Fruit Fly|Flightless Fruit Flies]] (''Drosophila hydei'')
*Giant Mealworms (''Tenebrio molitor)''
*Butterworms (''Chilecomadia moorei'')
*Hornworms (''Manduca sexta'')
*[[Nightcrawler|Nightcrawlers]] (''Lumbricus terrestris'')
*Phoenix Worms (''Hermetia illucens)''
*Red Runner Roaches (''Periplaneta lateralis / Shelfordella lateralis / Blatta lateralis)''
*[[Silkworm|Silkworms]] (''Bombyx mori)''
*[[Superworm|Superworms]] ''(Zophobas mori)''
*[[Waxworm|Waxworms]] ''(Achroia grisella / Galleria mellonella)''
*Bean Beetles (''Callosobruchus maculatus)''

====Fish====
*Silversides (''Menidia menidia'')
*Guppies (''Poecilia reticulata)''
*Common Molly (''Poecilia sphenops'')
*Southern Platy Fish (''Xiphophorus maculatus'')
*Variatus Platy / Variable Platy (''Xiphophorus variatus'')
*Greater Amberjack (''Seriola dumerili'')
*Ayu (''Plecoglossus altivelis'')
*Great Barracuda (''Sphyraena barracuda'')
*Largemouth Bass (''Micropterus salmoides'')
*Northern Rock Bass (''Ambloplites rupestris'')
*Northern Smallmouth Bass (''Micropterus dolomieu'')
*Bloater (''Coregonus hoyi'')
*Bluegill (''Lepomis macrochirus'')
*Lake Herring Cisco (''Coregonus artedi'')
*Atlantic Cod (''Gadus morhua'')
*Black Crappie (''Pomoxis nigromaculatus'')
*Atlantic Croaker (''Micropogonias undulatus'')
*Spot Croaker (''Leiostomus xanthurus'')
*Cunner (''Tautogolabrus adspersus'')
*Piked Dogfish (''Squalus acanthias'')
*American Eel (''Anguilla rostrata'')
*Common Eel (''Anguilla anguilla'')
*Winter Flounder / Lemon Sole Flounder (''Pseudopleuronectes americanus'')
*Yellowtail Flounder (''Pleuronectes ferruginea'')
*Longnose Gar (''Lepisosteus osseus'')
*Glasseye (''Heteropriacanthus cruentatus'')
*Haddock (''Melanogrammus aeglefinus'')
*Largehead Hairtail (''Trichiurus lepturus'')
*Hake (''Urophycis'')
*Silver Hake (''Merluccius bilinearis'')
*Atlantic Halibut (''Hippoglossus hippoglossus'')
*Kawakawa (''Euthynnus affinis'')
*Southern Kingfish (''Menticirrhus americanus'')
*Inshore Lizardfish (''Synodus foetens'')
*Atlantic Mackerel (''Scomber scombrus'')
*Atlantic Blue Marlin (''Makaira nigricans'')
*Mullet (''Mugil'')
*European Perch (''Perca fluviatilis'')
*Ocean Perch /Redfish Perch (''Sebastes marinus'')
*Yellow Perch (''Perca flavescens'')
*Northern Pike (''Esox lucius'')
*American Plaice (''Hippoglossides atessoides'')
*European Plaice (''Pleuonectes platessa'')
*Saithe Pollock (''Pollachius'')
*Pumpkinseed (''Lepomis gibbosus'')
*Atlantic Salmon (''Salmo salar'')
*Coho Salmon (''Oncorhynchus kisutch'')
*Mackerel Scad (''Decapterus pinnulatus'')
*Yellowtail Scad (''Atule mate'')
*Southern Porgy Scup (''Stenotomus chrysops'')
*Hardhead Sea Catfish (''Ariopsis felis'')
*Black Seabass (''Centropristis striata'')
*Searobin (''Prionotus'')
*Sand Seatrout (''Cynoscion arenarius'')
*Silver Seatrout (''Cynoscion nothus'')
*Skate (''raja'' / ''raia'')
*Pond Smelt (''Hypomesus olidus'')
*Blotcheye Soldierfish (''Myripristis berndti'')
*Common Sole / Dover Sole / Black Sole (''Solea solea'')
*European Sprat (''Sprattus sprattus'')
*Eyestripe Surgeonfish (''Acanthurus dussumieri'')
*Blackfish Tautog (''Tautoga onitis'')
*Tilapia (various)
*Brown Trout (''Salmo trutta'')
*Lake Trout (''Salvelinus namaycush'')
*Rainbow Trout (''Oncorhynchus mykiss'')

====Mammals====
*House Mouse (''Mus musculus'')
*Norway Rat (''Rattus norvegicus'')
*African Soft Fur Rat (''Mastomys natalensis'')
*Dwarf Roborovski Hamster (''Phodopus'' ''roborovski'')
*Campbell’s Dwarf Russian Hamster (''Phodopus campbelli'')
*Syrian (Golden) Hamster Hamster (''Mesocricetus'' ''auratus'')
*Dwarf Winter White Russian Hamster (''Phodopus'' ''sungorus'')
*Chinese Hamster Hamster (''Cricetus'' ''griseus'')
*Mongolian Gerbil (''Meriones unguiculatus'')
*

====Reptiles====

* Green Anole (''Anolis carolinensis)''
*Brown Anole (''Anolis sagrei)''

====Avian====

*Chicks
*Common Quail Chick (''Coturnix coturnix'')

These are acceptable for adults once a month, but not required.

====Foods to avoid====
*Goldfish
*Red Wigglers
* Minnows
*Beef
*Pork
*Cooked Chicken
*Plant-based Frog Food
*Fish or other animals high in [[thiaminase]]
===Feeding schedule===
===Feeding schedule===
==== Juveniles====
====Froglets====
Juveniles (< 6 months old) should be fed daily -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin.
Juveniles (< 6 months old) should be fed every other day -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if feeding with tongs, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.
====Juveniles====

Juvenile Pacman Frogs (6-12 months old) should be fed every 3 days -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if feeding by tongs, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.
Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.
====Adults====
====Adults====
Feed adults 2-3 times a week, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting. Anything not eaten should be removed. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition. Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.
Feed adult Pacman Frogs (>12 months) every 5-10 days, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if tong-feeding, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Staple foods include [[Domestic Cricket|crickets]], [[Mealworm|mealworms]], Dubia roaches, [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]], and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking. Be sure to remove any uneaten food.


Note that overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.
|-|Health Guide=
==Supplementation==
All prey items should be dusted with a calcium supplement with Vitamin D3, and rotated each feeding with a multivitamin supplement to ensure a balanced diet. An appropriate multivitamin should also be provided. [[Carotenoid]] can be provided to make the appearance of the coloration to be more vibrant, but it is not necessary.
===Calcium===
Calcium is essential in developing a healthy skeletal system and preventing Metabolic Bone Disease. MBD leads to death. Select a calcium supplement that comes with Vitamin D3 and is phosphorus free. Finely-ground powder can be used to dust feeders. A Calcium and vitamin D3 powder should be applied every feeding.
===Multivitamins===
Multivitamins should be offered once a week. It should include Vitamin A, Niacin, Vitamin K, Beta Carotene, and others.
===Vitamin A===
A Vitamin A supplement should be offered once a month. Vitamin A can build up in the body quickly and lead to a condition known as Vitamin A Toxicity if provided too often.
===Carotenoid===
Use once a week to enhance the vibrancy of colors and patterns of Pacmans.<ref>Dietary Supplements for a Pacman Frog: Pacman Frog Care 101 https://pacmanfrogcare101.com/dietary-supplements/#:~:text=Repashy%20SuperPig%20is%20a%20Carotenoid,easily%20absorbs%20in%20the%20body.</ref>
==Health==
The primary recommendation for health issues is to visit an exotic veterinarian. Before acquiring any exotic or non-traditional animal a local exotic veterinarian that specializes in the animal should be located and an appointment should be scheduled for a health examination. Be aware many exotic veterinarians are not available 24/7. It is recommended to try to locate one that is, if possible.
===Healthy Indicators===
*A regular feeding and defecation routine
*Clear, bright eyes
*Absence of mites
*A round body
*Strong, smooth jaw line
*Ability to latch onto prey
*Smooth, symmetrical scales
Keeping a tracking journal will make identifying a frog that is beginning to experience illnesses or afflictions simpler as well as help the exotic veterinarian identify health issues. The journal should include things such as dates, feeding, defecation, feeder refusal, feeders, shedding, supplement/dusting, irregular behavior, shedding, changes in environment, medical soaks, cleanings, cleaning supplies, water type, and anything else that can be catalogued.
===Signs of Illness===
There are several signs that your frog may be experiencing health issues and the following are indicators to look out for (this is not an exhaustive list).
====Lack of Appetite====
Pacman frogs have a healthy appetite and is a contributor to the reason that Pacman frogs received the nickname. Lack of appetite is an early indicator for many health issues. Reduction in appetite should indicate that the health of the Pacman should be examined.
=====Recommendations=====
*Ensure that temperature and humidity are at the required levels.
*Adequate lighting exposure/appropriate nutrition and supplements
*Changes in environment can cause stress. If changes have been made the frog should be allowed to acclimate.
*Adequate hiding spots should be provided.
*A diluted unflavored Pedialyte bath.
======Unflavored Pedialyte Bath======
#2 Drops of Unflavored Pedialyte to 1 quart of clean, dechlorinated, fresh water
#Place the frog in the mixture up to the bottom part of its chin for 20-30 minutes.
The electrolytes help the frog recover as the Pacman will absorb them through its' skin.<ref>https://pacmanfrogcare101.com/unhealthy-pacman-frog/#:~:text=Put%20a%20couple%20drops%20of,the%20PacMan%20frog%20recover%20quicker.</ref>
====Humidity & Temperature====
The first thing you should examine is the humidity and temperature of the enclosure. The humidity should be around 70% to 85% and temperatures should be in the 80° to 85° range. If these are not at the appropriate range adjust those factors to be in the appropriate range. Digital thermometers and hygrometers are preferred as analog is not as accurate as well as prone to widely inaccurate measurements.
=====UVA/UVB Lighting, Vitamin D3, & Calcium=====
A lack of Calcium and Vitamin D3 can lead to improper digestion and a poor skeletal system. UVA/UVB lighting helps in the production of Vitamin D3 which is needed for calcium absorption. UVA/UVB lighting or the correct calcium and Vitamin D3 supplements leads to a healthy appetite, increased activity levels, and good digestion. Poor calcium intake can lead to [[Metabolic Bone Disease|Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)]].
====Stress====
When a frog is stressed out it can lead to a lack of appetite. Frequently when a frog is introduced to a new environment or new features into its enclosure this can impact its hunger. When a frog is experiencing this situation it should be left to its own devices until it is acclimated. Attempting to force feed and/or digging up the frog could stress it out more and should be avoided.
====Runny or Discolored Stool====
=====Runny Stool=====
If a Pacman frog has runny stool this is typically a sign of an insufficient diet or internal parasites. If there is access to an exotic veterinarian that specializes in amphibians it is recommended to take a fecal sample of the runny stool for analysis. An analysis is a diagnostic tool that can be used to identify parasites. This will result in the veterinarian prescribing medication that can be used in the elimination of said parasites.
=====Discolored Stool=====
Discolored stool is indicative of digestive issues and/or a poor diet. If possible a stool sample should be taken to an exotic veterinarian for diagnostic tests and if required future appointments. The frog may require a radical change in diet.
=====Recommendations=====
A varied diet with the appropriate vitamins and supplements should be provided to assist in preventing runny and discolored stool. Typically runny or discolored stool is indicative of internal parasites and as such should result in a visit to an exotic veterinarian.
====Unable to Latch onto Prey, Drooping Jaw====
If the frog is having difficult times latching on to prey and/or a drooping draw this is a likely indicator of Metabolic Bone Disease. MBD leads to deformed bones, brittle bones, and death.
=====Recommendations=====
Visit a veterinarian immediately.
====Abscesses on Limbs====
As Pacman are fossorial they tend to remain buried for exceptionally long periods. Due to being in a constantly moist environment they are susceptible to developing abscesses on their legs, increasingly so their hind legs. In most cases, but not all, these abscesses are not something to be concerned about, however, they should be monitored. Changes in size and/or color should result in the caretaker scheduling an appointment with a specialized veterinarian. The veterinarian may determine that antibiotics need to be prescribed.
=====Recommendations=====
Maintaining a clean environment can help prevent abscesses. Supplying clean fresh dechlorinated or spring water and changing out the substrate monthly (minimum) or when it is heavily soiled helps in the prevention or exacerbation of abscesses. If the terrarium is odorous the enclosure should be disinfected as well as replacing the water and substrate.
====Dry Skin Cocoon====
When the terrarium has humidity levels that are too low and/or there is a lack of clean water the Pacman frog may wrap itself in a dry outer layer. The action is to retain moisture and keep the inner layer of skin moist to survive dry periods. If this dry period continues the Pacman frog will become desiccated and perish.
=====Recommendations=====
The Pacman frog should always have access to clean, fresh water. The water bowl should be changed out, at a minimum, daily. A hygrometer should be used in the enclosure to monitor humidity levels. A mister with controls is suggested. If you have issues maintaining the correct humidity level in the air ensuring the substrate is at a 70% humidity level will suffice. As the Pacman is fossorial it will be in the substrate and will be provided with the appropriate moisture. In this case the hygrometer should be touching the substrate or slightly in the substrate.
====Film Over Eyes====
If there appears to be a milky, cloudy film on one or both eyes this could be an indicator of serious afflictions. It could also be an indicator of insufficient moisture levels, unsanitary water, and/or a fatty diet. An excess of fat can lead to [[lipids]] building up over the eyes.
=====Recommendations=====
Pacman should be offered clean water at all times as well as high quality feeders that are not high in fat content.
====Toxic Out Syndrome====
Pacman frogs absorb water through their skin and their urinary bladders. If the water utilized has high presence of ammonia or other toxins the frog will "tox out" or "toxing out". If not addressed immediately the frog will pass in a few days.
=====Signs of Toxing Out=====
*[[Hyperactivity]]
*Lethargy
*Erratic/Spastic Extensions of the Hind Legs
*Cloudy Eyes
*[[Listlessness]]
=====Recommendations=====
Immediately replace the water with dechlorinated or spring water. Water should be replaced every couple of hours until improvement in the frog's condition is observed. Substrate should also be replaced as the chemicals from the previously used water may have leeched into the substrate. Odorous substrate can be an indicator of ammonia buildup within the substrate from fecal waste.<ref>Reptile Magazine Amphibian Diseases: Toxing Out https://reptilesmagazine.com/amphibian-diseases-toxing-out/</ref>


A specialized veterinarian should be sought in severe cases.
Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.
====Redness on the Belly or Bottom of Hind Legs====
Redness on the belly or bottom of hind leges is indicative of a bacterial infection on the underside of the legs and abdomen. This is caused by a soiled and/or contaminated enclosure.
=====Symptoms=====
*Persistent Open Sores
*[[Lethargy]]
*Significant Weight Loss
*[[Anemia]]
*[[Sanguination]] from the Tongue and/or Nose
=====Recommendations=====
If the frog is suspected of having Red Leg Syndrome a veterinarian should be sought out. The veterinarian will most likely perform blood tests to identify the bacteria. Once the bacteria is identified the veterinarian will evaluate the liver and other organs and typically will prescribe antibiotics.

Keeping the enclosure and water sanitary and clean will help prevent Red Leg Syndrome.
====Loss of Appetite, No Stool, and Hard Lump in Belly====
Another possible cause of a lack of appetite could be [[impaction]]. Impaction can also result in a lack of bowel movements and/or a hard lump in the belly. A hard lump on the right side of the body is typically impaction.

Impaction is a blockage in the digestive system from when a frog swallows something it cannot digest. In Pacman this could by improper substrates such as sphagnum moss, bark, or chips. This is why fine substrate is a must as if it is accidentally swallowed it can be passed. Impaction can lead to death, especially if not addressed immediately.
=====Recommendations=====
Seek a veterinarian immediately.
======Honey Soaks======
#Prepare a dechlorinated bath with a few drops of organic, raw honey or manuka honey.
#Water level should reach to bottommost part of chin.
#Stir bath until honey is dissolved.
#Bath should be heated to around 80° to 85°
#Gently massage the afflicted side in small circles to help stimulate defecation
#Allow for a 20 minute soak.
#Repeat twice a day.
====Obesity====
Just like humans Pacman frogs can become obese, especially if they have a diet high in fats. As Pacman frogs naturally have a chubby look it is more difficult to identify obesity. Obesity is something that is not a concern for juveniles as they are still growing.
*More time spent hiding
*Drinking less
*Weight loss
*Discolored skin
*Swollen joints
*Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
=====Recommendations=====
Feeders high in fat, such as pinky mice and waxworms, should be fed sparingly and in moderation. Pacman should not be fed a diet of just one or a few items, but a varied and balanced diet to prevent obesity and ensure the appropriate nutritional needs are met.

If there are concerns of obesity seek a veterinarian. The veterinarian will utilize age and size as a basis to determine obesity as well as perform blood analysis to determine the fatty content of the Pacman's liver.

Pacman frogs should have regular visits with a specialized reptile/amphibian veterinarian to ensure a healthy lifestyle.
===Afflictions===
====Skin====
The most common infections present in Pacman are bacterial and fungal infections of the skin and eyes. If Pacman are not kept in the sanitary, moist, and warm conditions that are required they are susceptible to becoming infected.
=====Signs=====
*Redness
*Swelling
*Pus
*Abrasions
*Ulcers
*Patches/Wounds on Skin
*Lethargy
*Appetite Loss
=====Recommendations=====
Visit a reptile/amphibian specialist for treatment. Topical or systemic medications will be prescribed and the enclosure setup and parameters should be reviewed.
====Parasites====
=====Mites=====
Mites can be identified by the observation of miniature red-brown spots around the mouth, pits, and eyes as well as under scales.
======Recommendation======
See an exotic veterinarian who can identify the parasite(s) and prescribe the appropriate treatment.


When mites are present the room and enclosure need to be sterilized. All substrate should be disposed of. It should be sealed and removed from the building. The enclosure and room, preferably the entire structure, should be vacuumed. Vacuuming will get loose eggs, mites, and mite feces.<ref>Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care Collection [https://anapsid.org/mites.html#effective https://anapsid.org/mites.html]</ref>


Soaking the frog in consecutive fresh baths can assist in eliminating the mites as they will drown. Ensure you are pouring water over the frog's back gently.


Draw a 80º-85º F bath that will reach the bottom of the Pacman's chin. The bath should be diluted with Betadine. Enough betadine should be present that the color is the shade of medium tea. Before placing the afflicted frog in the Betadine bath it should be placed in a dechlorinated bath to allow it to drink some fresh water. Once that is completed transfer the Pacman to the Betadine bath. Gently pour the Betadine water over the Pacman being sure to '''<u>avoid</u>''' the eyes. If the Pacman defecates in the pool change it out. Once the bath is completed place the Pacman in a dry warm area while the enclosure is treated. While waiting for the enclosure to be treated a soft cloth that had been saturated in the diluted Betadine mixture should be run around the joints, legs, body, pits, and folds of skin. Use a cotton-tipped swab to apply the mixture '''<u>''around''</u>''' the eyes and nose making sure to '''''<u>not</u>''''' apply it to the nose and eyes. Afterwards allow the Pacman to soak in fresh, dechlorinated, warm water, while gently rinsing the frog to remove any remaining Betadine, taking great care to not pour water into the eyes or nose. If the enclosure has not finished being sterilized and renewed keep the frog in a temporary environment that has the correct heating and humidity. Continue repeating the baths until the mite infestation has been eradicated.<ref>Melissa Kaplans Herp Collection: Treating the Reptiles<nowiki/>https://www.anapsid.org/mites.html#reptile</ref>


Another option is preparing a gallon solution of [[Melafix]] per the manufacturer's instructions. Use the solution for the afflicted frog's bath. Mites will drown and the Melafix will assist in preventing infections of the wound and promote healing.<ref>Prolific Hobbyist Frog Forum https://www.frogforum.net/showthread.php/23735-Mites-(?p=182496&viewfull=1#post182496</ref>


==References==
[[Category:Care Guides]]


{{#seo:|title=How to Care for a Pet Pacman Frog}}
Pay close attention for 2-6 weeks after initial treatment to confirm that the mites have been eliminated.
{{#seo:|keywords=pacman, pac-man, frog, pet, care, guide}}
====Respiratory====
{{#seo:|description=Looking for information about how to care for a Pacman frog? This expert guide includes information about Pacman frog setup, food, temperature, humidity, and care.}}
Wheezing, lethargy, and drooling can be caused by lower than necessary humidity levels. Pacman are not built to handle dry air. Dry conditions can lead to severe illness.
====Ammonia Poisoning====
Ammonia poisoning is typically a result of poor enclosure conditions, specifically poor feces removal. High ammonia levels can lead to Toxic Out Syndrome.
====Bloating Disease====
If the Pacman has a bloated look from the accumulation of fluid under the skin. Seek out a veterinarian immediately. They may prescribe antibiotics, make micro incisions to release water, or other treatments.
</tabber>

Latest revision as of 20:18, 5 November 2024

Pacman Frog (Genus: Ceratophrys)[edit | edit source]

Pacman Frog Care Guide
Argentine Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata)1.JPG
Common name Pacman Frog
Also known as

Horned Frog

Scientific name Genus Ceratophrys
Geographical distribution South America
Discovered 1824 (Wied-Neuwied)
Size 4-7 inches (10-18 cm)
Behavior
Care level Moderate
Minimum enclosure size 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm)
Substrate

Coco coir

Temperature

80-85°F (24-29°C)

Humidity 70-85%
Food
  • Crickets
  • Dubia roaches
  • Silversides
  • Occasional pinkie mice (optional)
Supplements
  • Calcium with D3
  • Multivitamin

Description[edit | edit source]

The Pacman Frog, also known as the Horned Frog, is known for its round shape and large mouth, which resembles the iconic video game character "Pac-Man". Native to South America, individuals of this genus are known for their distinct appearance and voracious appetites. In nature Pacman Frogs are often found buried in leaf litter and soil, where they lie in wait for rainfall and passing prey.[1]

Appearance[edit | edit source]

Pacman Frogs average 4-7 inches (10-18 cm) in length as adults, making them one of the largest species of frogs commonly kept in captivity.[2] Most species are available in a variety of colors, including green, yellow, brown, and red - each with unique markings. They are distinguished by the size of their mouth, which is very large in proportion to their body.

Behavior[edit | edit source]

Pacman Frogs are nocturnal and fossorial.[3] They are mostly sedentary and may remain motionless for extended periods while they wait for rainfall or to ambush prey.[4] They are not strong swimmers, climbers, or jumpers, and prefer to remain almost entirely buried, with only their eyes and a portion of their head above the soil.

Pacman Frogs should be housed individually to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of tank mates. They may attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be cannibalistic, and will consume individuals of their species as well as other species of frogs.

While above ground, Pacman frogs will spend time soaking in their water bowl where they will both defecate and absorb water through specialized patches of skin on their body.

Wild Pacmans may brumate when seasonal temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers of skin in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep into the substrate, and stop eating or drinking until moisture and warmth return to their environment.[5]

Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume molted skin.

Sexing[edit | edit source]

It can be challenging or impossible to identify the sex of young or juvenile Pacman Frogs. Males are generally smaller than females when fully grown and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Adult females may be more than twice as large as adult males and are capable of laying hundreds, if not thousands of eggs while mating. Vocalization is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate - though females may vocalize briefly when startled or agitated too.

File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg
Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.

Species[edit | edit source]

There are eight species of Horned Frogs and three hybrids [6], including:

Hybrids:

  • Ceratophrys "Fantasy" (cranwelli x cornuta)
  • Ceratophrys "Green Apple" (cranwelli x joazeirensis)
  • Ceratophrys "Orwell" (cranwelli x ornata)

Care[edit | edit source]

File:Pacman Frog Care Image 4.0.jpg
Cheat sheet for some of the most important aspects of care. Is not all encompassing.

Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life. With proper care, they can live 15 years or more in captivity.

Shopping list[edit | edit source]

Selecting a healthy frog[edit | edit source]

When selecting a Pacman frog, check to ensure it is alert and that the eyes are clear, without visible infection or cataracts. The skin should be free of any wounds, lacerations, or blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, lethargic, or unresponsive to stimuli.

Required:

Recommended:

  • UVB light strip (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller Pro 7%)
  • Analog or digital light timer
  • Live plants
  • Hides (i.e., cork bark, driftwood, large stones, terra cotta pots or pieces, coconut huts)
  • Kitchen scale for weight tracking

Enclosure[edit | edit source]

A 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure, or a 20-gallon long aquarium is suitable for a single adult female frog. A 20"x10"x12" 10-gallon aquarium or larger is suitable for a single adult male frog. Adequate enclosures provide ample space for movement and burrowing. The enclosure should have a tight-fitting lid to prevent escape. Lids made of mesh, glass, or a combination of the two may be used to ensure adequate humidity is maintained.

Features[edit | edit source]

The enclosure should include

  • Substrate
  • Lighting
  • Heating (with a thermostat to monitor and control temperature)
  • Water dish
  • Hides
  • Live plants
File:Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa.jpg
Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa

Substrate[edit | edit source]

A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have about 3 inches inches (~8 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.

Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- should be avoided as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to impaction.

Lighting[edit | edit source]

Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a consistent day/night cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.

Temperature[edit | edit source]

Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, prolapse, organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid desiccation or overheating.

File:Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro.jpg
Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro
Heating[edit | edit source]

Use a deep heat projector ("DHP") or ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") connected to an automatic controller with a built-in thermostat to provide heat.

File:Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata).jpg
Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget

To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.

Humidity[edit | edit source]

Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure daily and ensuring the substrate remains moist but not waterlogged. Substrate should feel wet to the touch, but release only a few drops of water if a handful is squeezed. Substrate should be turned over and mixed frequently (i.e., daily) to ensure even moisture distribution and prevent anaerobic bacteria and/or fungus buildup.

Water Dish[edit | edit source]

Pacman Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. Adult Pacmans cannot swim or climb very well and are prone to drowning. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed when it appears soiled, and at least daily. The water dish should only be filled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or other impurities that may be dangerous to the Pacman frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water should be avoided as they will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.

Hides[edit | edit source]

Pieces of hardwood, driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.

File:Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime 2.jpg
Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime

Plants[edit | edit source]

Sturdy plants like Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots (above or below the substrate level) to prevent the frog from digging them up.

Cleaning[edit | edit source]

Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once per month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.

The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.

Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.


Gallery[edit | edit source]

Feeding & Supplementation[edit | edit source]

Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides.

Feeders should always be dusted with calcium to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease and hypocalcemia. If UVB is not being offered, feeders should be dusted with supplement powder containing Vitamin D3, such as Repashy Calcium Plus.

Feeders with hard exoskeletons, such as crickets and mealworms, should be fed occasionally - not as staples. Avoid larger feeders to prevent impaction. Avoid feeding live rodents or avians to prevent injury to the frog. Frozen (and later thawed) prey items are recommended to avoid risk of parasites.

Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes. After consuming a large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.

Feeding schedule[edit | edit source]

Froglets[edit | edit source]

Juveniles (< 6 months old) should be fed every other day -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if feeding with tongs, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.

Juveniles[edit | edit source]

Juvenile Pacman Frogs (6-12 months old) should be fed every 3 days -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if feeding by tongs, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.

Adults[edit | edit source]

Feed adult Pacman Frogs (>12 months) every 5-10 days, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if tong-feeding, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking. Be sure to remove any uneaten food.

Note that overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.

Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.

References[edit | edit source]

{{#seo:|title=How to Care for a Pet Pacman Frog}} {{#seo:|keywords=pacman, pac-man, frog, pet, care, guide}} {{#seo:|description=Looking for information about how to care for a Pacman frog? This expert guide includes information about Pacman frog setup, food, temperature, humidity, and care.}}

  1. ↑ Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta. Herpetologica, 50(1), 51–64. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875
  2. ↑ Willard, Joshua 2011. Pac Man Frog Care Sheet. Reptiles Magazine.https://reptilesmagazine.com/pac-man-frog-care-sheet/
  3. ↑ Julián Faivovich, Laura Nicoli, Boris L. Blotto, Martín O. Pereyra, Diego Baldo, J. Sebastián Barrionuevo, Marissa Fabrezi, Erik R. Wild, Célio F.B. Haddad "Big, Bad, and Beautiful: Phylogenetic Relationships of the Horned Frogs (Anura: Ceratophryidae)," South American Journal of Herpetology, 9(3), 207-227, (1 December 2014)
  4. ↑ Duellman, W. E., & Lizana, M. (1994). Biology of a Sit-and-Wait Predator, the Leptodactylid Frog Ceratophrys cornuta. Herpetologica, 50(1), 51–64. http://www.jstor.org/stable/3892875
  5. ↑ Wissman, Margaret A. 2011. Pacman Frog Not Eating. Reptiles Magazine. https://reptilesmagazine.com/pacman-frog-not-eating/
  6. ↑ Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (Accessed April 18, 2024). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/Amphibia/Anura/Ceratophryidae/Ceratophrys. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001
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