Vietnamese Mossy Frog Care Guide

Vietnamese Mossy Frog Care Guide
File:Vietnamese Mossy Frog Theloderma corticale (c) oldfears.jpg
Common name	Vietnamese Mossy Frog
Also known as	Horned Frog, Tonkin Bug-eyed Frog, Moss Bug-eyed Frog, and Warty Tree Frog
Scientific name	Genus Theloderma
Geographical distribution	Vietnam, Laos, and China
Discovered	1903 (Boulenger)
Size	2.5-3.5 inches (6.35-9 cm)
Behavior	Semiaquatic Nocturnal
Care level	Moderate
Minimum enclosure size	24"x18"x18" (61x46x46cm)
Substrate	Optional
Temperature	65-74°F (18.33-23.33°C)
Humidity	70-90%
Food	Crickets Nightcrawlers Dubia roaches
Supplements	Calcium with D3 Multivitamin

Description

The Vietnamese Mossy Frog (Theloderma corticale) is a semi-aquatic amphibian that is a part of the Rhacophoridae family and was first officially described in 1903.

Theloderma corticale is a low maintenance and undemanding frog.

Appearance

The Mossy Frog has a smooth underbelly, a wart-like (spines and tubercles) bumpy texture, and enlarged toe pads that aid in climbing. It has a mottled green, brown, red, brownish-black, and black patches.

Body Length

They average 2.5in to 3.5in (6.3cm to 8.8cm) in body length with females being larger due to sexual dimorphism. Females have been observed attaining a length of 4in, but tend to cap at 3.5in. Males reach 2.75in in body length.

Behavior

Nocturnal. Calmer than many frogs. The Mossy Frog utilizes its natural coloration to become a master of camouflage able to blend into the mossy rocks that number plenty across its habitat in the steep mountainous rainforest.

T. corticale spend the bulk of its life hiding underwater and in proximity of rocks adjacent to mountainous streams. Also, "stagnant water at the water's edge, underwater,  flooded caves, and tree hollows on the walls and in the water." They also spend time hiding underneath branches, rocks, and floating plants.

When resting Mossy Frogs spread out and become very flat and almost as wide as they are long to appear even more like moss.

Primary defense mechanism is to dive in the water and dash for cover.

Sexing

Identifying the sex of a young frog is extremely difficult if not impossible and it usually not possible until 6-8 months of age. Most Mossy Frogs are sold at ages too young to determine sex. Both sexes have different calls but unless there is direct observation this is not an appropriate tool to use for sex determination. As they get older it is easier to determine sex as females tend to be a 20% larger and males will have smaller, slimmer, and slender bodies.

Males

Males develop nuptial pads at the base of the thumbs to assist in amplexus and the appearance of nuptial pads is the most common process used to distinguish the sexes. The nuptial pads will become pink or red and more pronounced during the breeding season. Males are also slender.

Females

Females are 20% larger than males and reach 3.5in in length, frequently. They also tend to be more "heavy-bodied." Females will have a larger, wider head and a shorter snout than males. Rarely, females may present with underdeveloped nuptial pads. At maturity females appear very round due to the constant egg production. Wait until eggs are apparent before sexing a frog as female.

Calls

The Mossy frog has been described as having a "melodious" and "pleasant" call. Males and females have separate calls. Typically, males are the ones making vocalizations. Daytime vocalizations are rare. Once females begin responding to the calls of the males the males will begin feverishly calling out to display fitness.

Males

Males have been observed calling out as young as four (4) months old and they have a call that resembles a mechanical owl and a hooting melody. Their calls are very-low pitched and tend to occur in quick succession three or four times. During breeding season males call to demonstrate their fitness to potential partners.

Females

The call of the female is a single high-pitched squeak that tends to only occur after the call of a male.

Care

File:Vietnamese Mossy Frog Care Image 1.0.jpg

Vietnamese Mossy Frog General Care Image 1.0 for important aspects, but does not include everything.

Shopping List

• 10 gallon+ Aquarium/Terrarium
  • hold 3+ inches of water
  • Screen Lid
• Small Submersible pump
  • Large river rocks to cover pump
  • 2-3” Diameter Discharge
• Waterfall
• Filtration system
• Rainwater/Dechlorinated water
• Temperature & Humidity
  • Automatic Mister
  • Ceramic Heat Emitter/Deep Heat Projector
  • Automatic Controller [Non-Programable Heaters/Misters]
• Lighting
  • T5 Plant Light/Equivalent [Optional]
  • Full spectrum LED Light
  • Red/Moon Nightlights
    • not heat lamps
    • illuminate enclosure at night
  • UVB [Optional]
• Digital thermometer and hygrometer
• Leaf Litter
• Rocks
  • Faux Rock
  • Ceramic
• Background
  • Vertical Rock Cliffs
    • Replicates nature
  • Cork Background
• Underwater Structures
  • also poke on land - big enough to fit entire frog
• Wood
  • Branches
  • Mopani
  • Branch Entire Span of Enclosure
    • going in and out of water
• Clay Flower Pot
• Plants
  • Hanging
  • Aquatic
  • Terrestrial
  • Artificial
  • Live Moss
  • Leafy
• Vines
  • Thick Vines
  • Artificial Vines
• Cork Flats and Tubes Floating Islands
  • hiding spaces, perches, and egg deposit sites
  • floating food bowl
• Complete Vitamin Supplement
  • Calcium + Vitamin D3
  • Vitamin A

There should be a focus on providing enough material that the frog has a sense of shelter and security.

Water

Dechlorinated tap water or rainwater is acceptable and should have tannins added. Dechlorinators like Reptisafe are quick and safe methods for conditioning water. Bottled spring water can be used too. Indian Almond Leaves is a good tannin source choice that also is antimicrobial. Water should be tested and treated before use to ensure any toxins, ex. ammonia, are removed.

Reverse Osmosis (R/O) water is another choice as long as it is reconstituted with R/O Rx. R/O Rx adds minerals and trace elements back into the water, making it safe for herps.

A small pump is handy to remove old water quickly and should meet water requirements including mature tannins.

Tannins

Water that is too clean can be harmful and frequently leads to eye issues. Dechlorinated water should be used. T. corticale thrive in tannin dense water. Tannins are an organic natural material created as water passes through decaying vegetation and peaty soil. The tannins will tint the water a tea-like color and can cause the water to emit a earthy or musty odor. The water should maintain the tea-like color.

They are crucial for the development of Theloderma tadpoles. In the wild the tannins come from bogwoods, pinecones, and leaf litter. Pinecones are not suggested in captivity as alternative options are superior and pinecones can release too many tannins in an enclosed space. There is also an artificial tannin extract that is available and can be used called "blackwater extract."

Leaf Litter

Suitable leaf litter would be:

• Almond
• Oak
• Beech
• Maple
• Indian Almond (Terminalia catappa)

Indian Almond leaves are extremely popular. Tannins also release beneficial antimicrobial properties that help improve the health of the tadpoles, froglets, and frogs while preventing infection.

Enclosure

Mossy Frogs do well in a pairs, groups, or colonies for their entire life as long as their is enough space, including froglets. Their natural habitat is mountain streams that have cut through limestone outcroppings surrounded by terrestrial and aquatic vegetation as well as in flooded tree holes and rocky outcroppings. They thrive in cool and humid conditions in recreations of their habitat on mountainous streams and will search for rock crevices on stream banks and flooded caves. As they are semi-aquatic a large portion of the enclosure should contain water as a partial or full bottom. Due to their ability to climb up any surface the enclosure must be escape proof.

Tank

The first frog should have 10 gallons of space and there should be an additional 5 gallons of space per frog.

A 24" x 18" x 18" enclosure can house 3 to 4 adult frogs.

A 18" x 18" x 18" enclosure can house 2 frogs.

Enclosure should have a screen lid to ensure there is adequate ventilation.

Features

Land and water areas are needed as the Mossy Frog is semi-aquatic. Natural cork bark helps provide land areas and can be used to make floating islands. Include a floating food bowl. Rocks and medium-sized gravel can be used to recreate the rocky outcropping of their natural habitat. Provide several hiding places that the frogs can retreat to if frightened.

Filter & Pump

A filter and pump will improve water quality and add a current which helps recreate the mountainous streams that these frogs live in. A good quality submersible pump will keep the water clean and can be hidden with river rocks at one end of the enclosure.

A pump is not necessary though as this animal has also adapted to living in stagnant water.

Avoid internal filters as they are too powerful.

Substrate

If using live plants choose a well-draining soil mix that is appropriate for amphibians. Gravel or river stones can be used for the bottom however it is much easier to clean if you don't. Substrate is not required.

Lighting

Use a 12/12 light cycle, 12 hours on and 12 hours off). You can use a full spectrum fluorescent lights for an enclosure with plants, or a LED for enclosures without. As Mossy Frogs are nocturnal they do not have special lighting requirements. Avoid incandescent lighting as it generates heat. Your frogs will shy away under bright lights.

UVB

There is not a specific UVB requirement, however 2-4% UVB could be used to improve quality of life. Avoid coil lighting as it does not provide enclosure wide coverage.

Temperature

Due to their natural high altitude, 3000ft above sea level, the Mossy Frog has a low stable temperature year round and doesn't require any special heating. They rarely see temperatures above 75°F, but will see nighttime drops. Due to this low temperature they have slower than normal metabolisms.

While the Vietnamese Mossy Frog can tolerate temperatures as low as 50°F they should be kept between 65°F and 75°F. Occasional dips to 60°F is tolerable as it is similar to their natural habitat. It cannot tolerate high temperatures and temperatures of 80°F+ can be fatal. If you cannot keep the temperature below 75°F year round you may need to select another animal.

Optimal Temperature:

Daytime Temperature: 72°F-74°F

Nighttime Temperature:65°F-72°F

Normal room temperature has been found to be sufficient for Vietnamese Mossy Frogs and water temperature does not need to be monitored.

Provide a thermal gradient (warm and cold sides) that does not exceed 75°F.

Heating

Special heating is not required in households that maintain average room temperatures.

Humidity

Humidity levels should be kept between 70-80%, but up to 90% is acceptable. Keep in mind the more humid an environment the higher bacterial growth. They can tolerate humidity as low as 50% for a short period of time, but continued lower humidity will have negative health outcomes for your frog as they will dry out. It can quickly be fatal.

Plants

Live or fake plants may be used for decorations and structures. As T. corticale is nocturnal special lighting is not required unless needed for live plants.

If using live plants a soil substrate will be needed. Soggy soil that does not drain will lead to issues, including bacterial, for your frogs.

Rinse live plants and their roots in dechlorinated water to help remove any contaminants or hitchhikers.

Plant Suggestions

• Moss (ex. Pillow Moss) is a delicate plant but a great addition to the enclosure.
• Peace Lily roots will create a shoreline look with the roots stretching into the water.
• Golden Pothos
• Water Lettuce

Fish

Mossy frogs can peacefully be housed with certain fish, though some may become a snack. Zebra Danios, Tetras, and White Cloud Mountain Minnows are all acceptable tank mates.

Cleaning

Spot Cleaning

It is critical to spot clean daily to ensure the health of your frogs. Feces should be removed off of the walls, glass, and furnishings and uneaten food should also be removed.

Water Change

There should be a 50% water change at least once a month to ensure water quality. Water that is too clean is unhealthy for your frog and can lead to eye issues.

Handling

Make sure to follow the appropriate rules for handling to ensure you protect your frogs as well as protect yourself. Mossy Frogs are display pets and handling should be avoided unless absolutely necessary as they are easily stressed and can experience a sudden health decline. Handling for necessary cage maintenance is acceptable. They are also susceptible to abrasions and infections.

They are known to jump so care should be taken when handling to prevent a fall. They, like many amphibians, have a permeable skin and chemicals and toxins can easily be transferred from the environment or your hands to the frog resulting in a negative outcome.

Always be sure to wash with soap thoroughly after handling any animal.

Diet

T. corticale is a clumsy predator and will often miss taking multiple tries to capture the food item. It is nocturnal and consumes insects and small invertebrates, including crickets, worms, roaches, locusts, and more. Due to the low temperature in which they live they have a slower metabolism.

Feeding Schedule

Adults can eat full size crickets but juveniles should be fed ⅛ inch – ¼ inch crickets based on their size. Prey items should be no longer than the distance between the frog's eyes. They can be fed daily 2-3 crickets or 4-6 crickets every other day. Food should be provided at night. They should be released into the enclosure right before lights out or 10-15 minutes after lights out.

Ensure to use an appropriate food bowl to ensure crickets do not escape into the water and drown. An example could be a 6" diameter deli cup that is 3" tall.

Can be tong fed and will leap for food.

Supplementation

Feeders should be dusted twice a week with a full supplement containing Calcium with Vitamin D3. In the wild the Mossy Frog would get sufficient calcium from its diet and Vitamin D3 from the sun. Vitamin D3 carries the calcium to the skeletal system. The calcium builds and maintains a strong skeletal system. A diet with insufficient calcium and vitamin d3 will lead to Metabolic Bone Disease.

Use the following supplements or their equivalent.

• Hertavite
• Repashy Calcium Plus / Ranarium Cal-Bee
• Carotenoid

By utilizing supplementation you will increase the nutritional value of your feeders and pass on along essential nutrients.

Feeders

Crickets and roaches are the main staple of the Vietnamese Mossy Frog in captivity, but rotating other feeders is necessary to ensure a healthy diet, additional enrichment and minerals. Feeders should be gut-loaded.

Insects

• Banded Crickets (Gryllodes sigillatus)
• Black Crickets (Gryllus bimaculatus)
• Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Hermetia illucens)
• Blue Bottle Fly (Calliphora vomitoria)
• Butterworms (Chilecomadia moorei)
• Calciworms (Hermeia illucens)
• Death Head Roach (Blaberus craniifer)
• Discoid Roaches (Blaberus discoidalis)
• Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia)
• Flightless Fruit flies (Drosophila hydei)
• Fruit Flies (Drosophila melanogaster)
• Green Banana Roaches (Panchlora nivea)
• Guyana Four-Spot Roaches (Blaberus dubia)
• Hornworms (Manduca sexta) [SMALL]
• Lobster Roaches (Nauphoeta cinerea)
• Locusts (Acrididae)
• Madagascar Hissing Roaches (Gromphadorhina portentosa)
• Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)
• Nightcrawlers (Lumbricus terrestris)
• Orange-headed Cockroach (Eublaberus posticus)
• Phoenix Worms (Hermetia illucens)
• Red Runner Roaches (Periplaneta lateralis / Shelfordella lateralis / Blatta lateralis)
• Silkworms (Bombyx mori)
• Tomato Hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata)
• Turkistan Roaches (Blatta lateralis)
• Waxworms (Achroia grisella / Galleria mellonella)
• Waxworm Moths (Achroia grisella / Galleria mellonella)

Health

Water is a huge factor in the overall health of your frog and is extremely paramount to a healthy frog.

Fungus

Suspected fungal infections should be treated by an exotic reptile/amphibian veterinarian.

Toxic Out Syndrome

Vietnamese Mossy Frogs absorb water through their skin. If the water utilized has high presence of ammonia or other toxins the frog will "tox out" or "toxing out". If not addressed immediately the frog will pass in a few days. Toxins could also be absorbed and leeched from keeper's skin if proper handling is not followed.

Signs of Toxing Out

• Hyperactivity
• Lethargy
• Erratic/Spastic Extensions of the Hind Legs
• Cloudy Eyes
• Listlessness

Recommendations

Immediately replace the water with dechlorinated or spring water. Water should be replaced every couple of hours until improvement in the frog's condition is observed. Substrate should also be replaced as the chemicals from the previously used water may have leeched into the substrate. Odorous substrate can be an indicator of ammonia buildup within the substrate from fecal waste.

A specialized veterinarian should be sought in severe cases.

Breeding

Mossy Frogs reach sexual maturity around 7 to 8 months old and breed year round in captivity. While Mossy Frogs can breed in pairs there is better success in group breeding. 2-3 males per females tends to have the best outcome as the female may choose her mate. For some reason some groups will breed excessively while others may not breed at all. They breed around pools of water in rocky outcroppings or within flooded tree holes. A rain chamber or increase in humidity is not needed to trigger breeding. When you hear your frogs calling this is indicative of them preparing to mate and will usually precede breeding for approximately one (1) week. These activities tend to occur during the early hours before dawn. When amplexus is observed it can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days or so for the actual spawning to occur and more than one male can be locked in amplexus with a single female. Females locked in amplexus should be monitored to ensure that the male(s) do not inadvertently drown her in their attempts to reproduce. It is common to observe multiple males clinging to the back of a female. The extra males are hoping to fertilize the females egg if the chosen mate becomes dislodged. If amplexus is successful the female will lay a clutch of eggs within the next 24 hours.

Proven females are highly sought after due to temperature-dependent sex determination within the species. Females should be rested for at least two weeks after each clutch to allow recovery time from the trauma of egg-laying. Males will continue harassing the female for mating even same day as her egg-laying.

Eggs

Egg clutches can be left where they were laid and are usually laid on sturdy items in cool, dark areas within the vivarium. This is to protect them from heat and intense light. Fertilized eggs are laid right above the waterline where they will fall into the water and begin developing into tadpoles. Clutches are typically 10 to 30 eggs stuck together with a sticky opaque substance. Experienced keepers can choose to remove the eggs and incubate them within petri dishes. The eggs are all in their own gel packets that tend to be about a quarter of a half inch apart. The gel packet will swell twice as large as it absorbs water. They are quite durable. There is a high success rate with fertilized eggs. Mossy Frog eggs have a dark upper portion and a light bottom part similar to many amphibians. They are a clear color with a black dot inside the gel packet. The dot is the embryo. As the tadpole develops the dot will begin to twitch more and more and begin moving. Tadpoles will develop in 14 to 21 days.

Egg-laying Options

• Submerged Corktubes
• Branch underside overhanging water
• Aquatic plants
• Fake plants
• Bogwood

New Moms

Inexperienced and young females tend to lay smaller clutches that pepper the enclosure and many of those eggs will be infertile. This is believed to be caused by the trauma of the egg laying cycle. By the third or fourth clutch the ratio of fertilized eggs should begin to climb.

Petri Dish

1. When eggs are found they are placed in the petri dish.
2. Remove each egg from the surface with tweezers or a flat stiff item like a credit card.
3. Add two (2) teaspoons of water to the dish with the eggs which should be enough to come halfway up the side of the eggs.
4. Remove the eggs and place in the same orientation that they were laid.
5. Five (5) to seven (7) days later the gel surrounding the eggs will have become swollen and the tadpole development should be visible
6. Within fifteen (15) to twenty (20) days later the tadpoles should be fully developed and emerge from the eggs.
7. Tadpoles should be transferred to Tadpole Rearing Tank.

Tadpoles

Within fifteen (15) to twenty (20) days after being laid the tadpoles should be fully developed and emerge from the eggs. Water quality needs to be correct prior to tadpoles dropping down. As Theloderma corticale is not cannibalistic tadpoles can be kept with adults. Tadpoles should be removed from the adult tank 2 to 4 weeks after emerging as tadpoles and moved into a Rearing Tank. Tadpoles raised individually will emerge quicker and larger. Tadpoles have a high success rate due to their large and sturdy figure.

Tadpoles will consume any drowned crickets and fecal matter if kept in the adult tank. Tadpoles can be fed dried spirulina, crushed crickets, and chlorella algae. Sprinkle the food onto the surface where it will be eaten or sink to the bottom where it will also be eaten.

The warmer the water the quicker tadpoles develop but the more likelihood they will become male. When water temperature is kept in the 70s tadpoles raised individually tend to emerge in about 60 days as opposed to the 120 to 180 days it can take when raised as a group.

Tadpoles raised at lower temperatures will produce females with more regularity. The ratio of females to males sits around 1:4 when tadpoles are raised in water between 55°F and 60°F. Tadpoles raised at room temperature tend to all become male.

End stage tadpoles are quite larger exceeding 3.5" in length with the tail comprising most of this length.

As tadpoles begin metamorphizing into froglets their skin color and texture begins to appear.

Tadpole Rearing Tank

If you choose to communally raise tadpoles, but separately from the adults you will need a tadpole rearing tank.

• 10gallon Aquarium
  • 4" of water bottom
• Several Indian Almond Leaves
• Aquatic Frog Food
  • 1 pellet per tadpole twice a week
  • Josh's Frogs Aquatic Frog Food

The water should be 50% changed weekly. The Indian Almond leaves will leech tannins into the water providing antimicrobial prosperities and also provide tadpoles with an additional food source.

After several months (but as many as eight) tadpoles will begin to develop their appendages. Once their appendages have finished developing they will climb the glass to leave the water. Their gills would have been grown over by skin as lungs were developed. Teeth, front and rear legs develop and the tail disappears as it is absorbed for food. Once they have reached this stage they should be transferred to the Froglet Grow Out Terrarium.

Froglets

Froglets have a vibrant red and green pattern on their back that lessens and dulls with age.

Froglets grow rapidly and around six months reaches 2" in length. When they reach this size they can be introduced to the adult enclosure. Similar to the tadpole stage, froglets raised individually grow much quicker.

Feed every other day up to ¼” dusted in vitamin and calcium crickets. Hatchling locusts are another good option. Start by feeding two (2) to three (3) crickets with two to three hours of feeding time before removing any left over crickets.

Froglet Grow Out Terrarium

• 10 gallon aquarium
• 1-2" of dechlorinated tannin water
• floating cork flats
  • islands
  • avoid tubes so you can monitor growth
• floating food bowl
• Pothos cuttings
  • allow to root and grow into water
• Leaf Litter
  • mimic boggy stream