Poison Dart Frog Care
| Poison Dart Frog Care | |
|---|---|
| File:Dendrobates leucomelas-blaize.png | |
| Common name | Poison Dart Frog |
| Also known as |
|
| Scientific name | Family: Dendrobatidae |
| Geographical distribution | Central and South America |
| Discovered | 1865 (Cope) |
| Size | 0.4-2.4 inches (1-6 cm) |
| Behavior |
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| Care level | Medium |
| Minimum enclosure size | 18"x18"x24" (45x45x60cm) |
| Substrate | ABG mix |
| Temperature |
|
| Humidity | 70-95% |
| Food |
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| Supplements | Repashy Calcium Plus |
How to care for a Poison Dart Frog[edit | edit source]
Description[edit | edit source]
Dendrobatidae (commonly known as "Poison Frogs", "Poison Dart Frogs", and "Dart Frogs") is a family of frogs native to Central and South America that are distinguished by their vibrant colors and deadly poison.
Contrary to popular belief however, not all poison dart frogs are brilliantly-colored, and not all poison dart frogs secrete lethal poisons.
While many of the 200 or so known species of poison frogs display bright colors to ward off predators, some display colors better suited for camouflage than signaling they may be poisonous. Only three species are known to be lethally toxic.[1] [2]
Despite popular belief, poison dart frogs are not highly toxic in captivity, where they typically consume a diet of wingless fruit flies. Wild dart frogs, on the other hand, consume various arthropods (ants, mites, etc.) that are believed to be the source of their toxicity.[3] Research suggests wild-caught specimens may retain some poison for six years or more after capture, but the vast majority of frogs available in the hobby today are captive-bred.[4]
Appearance[edit | edit source]
Poison dart frogs range in size from 0.4-2.4 inches (1-6 cm), with Minyobates minutus among the smallest, and Phyllobates terribilis among the largest.[5]
Among species commonly kept by hobbyists, Phyllobates terribilis (e.g., "Mint terribilis", "Orange Blackfoots") are considered the largest at about 2 inches (5 cm), while Ranitomeya (aptly referred to as "thumbnail dart frogs") are among the smallest - remaining under 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length . Most poison frog species are known to live 10 or more years in captivity with proper care.
Behavior[edit | edit source]
Most poison dart frogs are diurnal and most active during the day. Species kept in captivity range from primarily terrestrial (ground-dwelling) to arboreal (tree-dwelling). Most are considered "semi-arboreal" and given the opportunity, will utilize both ground-level and climbing space.[5]
Diet[edit | edit source]
Captive poison dart frogs rely primarily on wingless fruit flies dusted with essential vitamins and minerals. Dart frog keepers typically culture their own fruit flies, and maintain two or more fruit fly cultures in various stages of growth at any given time. Fruit flies are usually kept inside 32oz plastic culture cups with specialized media.
See our Fruit Fly Culture Guide for more information about culturing fruit flies.
Care[edit | edit source]
Dart frog care ranges from Easy to Advanced care, depending on the species, age, and origin (e.g., wild-caught or captive-bred).
Dart frogs are relatively easy to care for after their naturalistic vivarium has been constructed. Since wild poison dart frogs inhabit lush tropical rainforests dense with vegetation, their enclosures should be designed accordingly.
A few species have been bred in captivity for decades (like Dendrobates tinctorius, Dendrobates auratus, and Dendrobates leucomelas) and therefore have become more hardy and forgiving of beginner mistakes.
The most difficult aspects of poison dart frog-keeping are building a suitable habitat and consistently producing wingless fruit flies for them to eat. These challenges become more manageable with time, research, and a bit of guidance from experienced dart froggers.
Excessive heat and inadequate humidity are among the most common killers of captive dart frogs.
Dart frogs require enclosures with 75% or higher humidity at all times, and temperatures ranging from 68-78°F (20-25°C). While temperatures below this range may be tolerated for a short duration, temperatures over 80°F (27°C) can quickly become lethal to most species of dart frogs.[5]
Additionally, some species (like D. tinctorius) are known to compete for mates, food, territory and calling sites in captivity - and are best kept in Male-Male or Male-Female pairs under beginner care.
Dendrobates auratus, Dendrobates leucomelas, Phyllobates terribilis, Epipedobates, and most Ranitomeyas are safely kept in groups.
Enclosure[edit | edit source]
18"x18"x24" (45x45x60cm) is the recommended minimum enclosure size for adult frogs. Front-opening enclosures are often recommended as they are easier to access and maintain.
Features[edit | edit source]
Suitable enclosures will contain leaf litter, dense tropical vegetation, a solid glass or acrylic lid covering the top of the enclosure (to maintain humidity), a drainage layer below the substrate, and climbing features.
Leaf litter should cover any ground not already occupied by vegetation. Leaves provide hiding places to help the frogs feel more secure, while retaining moisture and preventing accidental ingestion of substrate while feeding.
The lid of the enclosure should cover all but a 1-2 inch (25-50mm) gap, to provide a suitable balance of humidity and ventilation. This gap should be covered with window screen mesh to prevent frogs or fruit flies from escaping.
A drainage layer should be constructed below the substrate to prevent accumulation of anaerobic bacteria and excessive moisture. High-porosity filter foam, LECA balls, and plastic egg crate material all make suitable drainage layers.
Substrate need not be topped with sphagnum moss, as it can retain excessive moisture and be prone to bacterial or fungal growth.
A water dish is not necessary with adequate misting, and water features (while aesthetically pleasing) are not recommended for beginners as they tend to frequently break down, and may provide inadequate filtration of bacteria and nitrogenous waste.
Substrate[edit | edit source]
Tropical bioactive substrates are appropriate for poison dart frogs.
For bioactive substrates, use a mix that:
- Retains some moisture.
- Drains well (into your "false bottom" drainage layer).
- Does not contain added chemicals or fertilizers.
- Is free from impaction risk (e.g., no pebbles, large particles, perlite, etc.).
Atlanta Botanical Garden ("ABG") mix, and similar tropical vivarium substrates are formulated with these features in mind - and are the go-to for dart frog vivariums.
Avoid substrates that:
- Are 100% coco coir.
- Contain added fertilizers.
- Are topped with sphagnum moss.
- Contain pebbles, gravel, perlite, vermiculite, wood chips, or other particles that may be harmful if ingested.
See our tropical bioactive substrate guide for more information.
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Lighting[edit | edit source]
Poison dart frogs do not require complicated or expensive lighting.
Any full-spectrum LED light on a day/night cycle that is capable of supporting tropical plant growth is sufficient for dart frogs.
Research indicates poison dart frogs may benefit from UV-B light when provided under close supervision.[6] However, beginners should avoid using UV-B lights due to common mistakes which result in dart frogs overheating or drying out. Dietary Vitamin D3 should be supplemented in the absence of UV-B to ensure adequate calcium absorption.
Temperature[edit | edit source]
Most poison dart frogs prefer room temperatures 68-78°F (20-25°C) during the day, dropping no lower than 65°F (18°C) at night or for extended periods.
Temperatures over 80°F (27°C) can quickly become lethal to many species of dart frogs, though some (like Dendrobates auratus and Oophaga pumilio) are more heat-tolerant than others.[5]
The safest way to provide additional heating or cooling is to heat or cool the room the enclosure resides in.
A portable air conditioning unit may be used to provide supplemental cooling to a room. In colder months, a portable space heater may be suitable - but humidity should be closely monitored as most heating devices will significantly reduce humidity.
Humidity[edit | edit source]
Maintain 75-95% humidity by misting distilled or reverse-osmosis water throughout the enclosure 1-3 times per day, or as needed. Using these high-purity types of water will prevent mineral buildup on glass or plants.
Misting can be performed manually using a hand-mister or using an automated misting system, like a MistKing.
Custom glass or acrylic lids should be used to cover 95%+ of the top of the enclosure. This will assist in maintaining adequate humidity, while also providing appropriate ventilation. The uncovered portion may be covered with window screen mesh to prevent frogs or fruit flies from escaping.
Warning: Humidity levels below 75% can rapidly lead frogs to illness or fatal desiccation. This risk is even higher in dry environments, or places that experience seasonal winter weather - as heating systems typically draw moisture out of the air.
Water features, while aesthetically pleasing, can harbor bacteria and are prone to mechanical failures that may require frequent maintenance.
Most experts recommend avoiding water features altogether, and encourage beginners to instead focus attention on the health of their new poison dart frogs.
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Feeding[edit | edit source]
Feed adult frogs (~12 months+) 20-30 Drosophila melanogaster or Drosophila hydei fruit flies every other day.
Juveniles (6-12 months) should be fed 20-30 D. melanogaster or D. hydei fruit flies daily.
If more than 10-15 fruit flies remain by the next feeding, reduce the amount fed until few or none remain by the next feeding.
Visually monitor the weight of your frog/s. If a frog appears to be thinning out or all fruit flies are gone within 24 hours, consider increasing the number of flies offered. Consider reducing the quantify of flies provided if a frog becomes obese.
Supplementation[edit | edit source]
Feeders should always be dusted with dart frog-appropriate calcium supplement powder (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus, Dendrocare).
Dust 1-2 feedings per month with dart frog-appropriate Vitamin A supplement (e.g., Repashy Vitamin A Plus). Carotenoid supplements may also be used to enhance pigmentation.
References[edit | edit source]
{{#seo:|title=How to Care for a Pet Poison Dart Frog}} {{#seo:|keywords=Poison dart frog, dart frog, frog, pet, care, guide}} {{#seo:|description=Looking for information about how to care for a poison dart frog? This expert guide includes information about dart frog setup, food, temperature, humidity, and care.}}
- ↑ Frost, Darrel R. 2024. Amphibian Species of the World: an Online Reference. Version 6.2 (February 6, 2024). Electronic Database accessible at https://amphibiansoftheworld.amnh.org/index.php. American Museum of Natural History, New York, USA. doi.org/10.5531/db.vz.0001
- ↑ Daly, J. W., Brown, G. B., Mensah-Dwumah, M., & Myers, C. W. (1978). Classification of skin alkaloids from neotropical poison-dart frogs (Dendrobatidae). Toxicon : official journal of the International Society on Toxinology, 16(2), 163–188. https://doi.org/10.1016/0041-0101(78)90036-3
- ↑ McGugan, J.R., Byrd, G.D., Roland, A.B. et al. Ant and Mite Diversity Drives Toxin Variation in the Little Devil Poison Frog. J Chem Ecol 42, 537–551 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10886-016-0715-x
- ↑ Daly, J. W., Myers, C. W., Warnick, J. E., & Albuquerque, E. X. (1980). Levels of batrachotoxin and lack of sensitivity to its action in poison-dart frogs (Phyllobates). Science (New York, N.Y.), 208(4450), 1383–1385. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.6246586
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 Barnett, S. L. 1996. The husbandry of poison-dart frogs (family Dendrobatidae), p. 1-6. In M. W. Frahm (ed.), Proceedings of the Third Annual Conference of the Association of Amphibian and Reptilian Veterinarians, Tampa, Fla
- ↑ Clover, J. F., S. L. Barnett, and R. L. Saunder. (1994). Captive management and breeding of dendrobatid and neotropical hylid frogs at the National Aquarium in Baltimore, p. 267-273. In J. B. Murphy, K. Adkerm and J. T. Collins (ed.), Captive management and conservation of amphibians and reptiles. Thomson-Shore, Inc., Dexter, Mich.