Pacman Frog Care Guide

Pacman Frog (Genus: Ceratophrys)

Pacman Frog Care Guide
Common name	Pacman Frog
Also known as	Horned Frog
Scientific name	Genus Ceratophrys
Geographical distribution	South America
Discovered	1824 (Wied-Neuwied)
Size	4-7 inches (10-18 cm)
Behavior	Fossorial Nocturnal
Care level	Moderate
Minimum enclosure size	30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm)
Substrate	Coco coir
Temperature	80-85°F (24-29°C)
Humidity	70-85%
Food	Crickets Dubia roaches Silversides Occasional pinkie mice (optional)
Supplements	Calcium with D3 Multivitamin

Description

The Pacman Frog, also known as the Horned Frog, is known for its round shape and large mouth, which resembles the iconic video game character "Pac-Man". Native to South America, individuals of this genus are known for their distinct appearance and voracious appetites. In nature Pacman Frogs are often found buried in leaf litter and soil, where they lie in wait for rainfall and passing prey.

Appearance

Pacman Frogs average 4-7 inches (10-18 cm) in length as adults, making them one of the largest species of frogs commonly kept in captivity. Most species are available in a variety of colors, including green, yellow, brown, and red - each with unique markings. They are distinguished by the size of their mouth, which is very large in proportion to their body.

Behavior

Pacman Frogs are nocturnal and fossorial. They are mostly sedentary and may remain motionless for extended periods while they wait for rainfall or to ambush prey. They are not strong swimmers, climbers, or jumpers, and prefer to remain almost entirely buried, with only their eyes and a portion of their head above the soil.

Pacman Frogs should be housed individually to prevent stress, aggression, or predation of tank mates. They may attempt to consume any animal that can fit in their mouth - and even some that cannot. In nature they are known to be cannibalistic, and will consume individuals of their species as well as other species of frogs.

While above ground, Pacman frogs will spend time soaking in their water bowl where they will both defecate and absorb water through specialized patches of skin on their body.

Wild Pacmans may brumate when seasonal temperatures and humidity drop below their preferred ranges. During brumation the frog will cease its regular shedding, and retain several layers of skin in order to encase itself and retain moisture. Frogs in this state will burrow deep into the substrate, and stop eating or drinking until moisture and warmth return to their environment.

Pacman frogs, especially froglets and juveniles, shed their outer layer of skin frequently and regularly - and often consume their "molt". When shedding, the frog will compress its body into a crouching position and expand while swatting its face or body to loosen the layer of old skin. It may appear to be yawning, coughing, or choking while attempting to remove and consume molted skin.

Sexing

It can be challenging or impossible to identify the sex of young or juvenile Pacman Frogs. Males are generally smaller than females when fully grown and develop darker throats, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs. Adult females may be more than twice as large as adult males and are capable of laying hundreds, if not thousands of eggs while mating. Vocalization is another key indicator, as males will emit a loud, consistent croaking sound, especially when seeking a mate - though females may vocalize briefly when startled or agitated too.

File:PacmanNuptialPads.jpg

Brown nuptial pads on a male Pacman Frog.

Species

There are eight species of Horned Frogs and three hybrids , including:

• Ceratophrys aurita
• Ceratophrys calcarata
• Ceratophrys cornuta
• Ceratophrys cranwelli
• Ceratophrys joazeirensis
• Ceratophrys ornata
• Ceratophrys stolzmanni
• Ceratophrys testudo

Hybrids:

• Ceratophrys "Fantasy" (cranwelli x cornuta)
• Ceratophrys "Green Apple" (cranwelli x joazeirensis)
• Ceratophrys "Orwell" (cranwelli x ornata)

Care

File:Pacman Frog Care Image 4.0.jpg

Cheat sheet for some of the most important aspects of care. Is not all encompassing.

Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life. With proper care, they can live 15 years or more in captivity.

Shopping list

Selecting a healthy frog

When selecting a Pacman frog, check to ensure it is alert and that the eyes are clear, without visible infection or cataracts. The skin should be free of any wounds, lacerations, or blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, lethargic, or unresponsive to stimuli.

Required:

• 20-gallon long aquarium, or 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure
• Tight-fitting enclosure lid
• Coco coir, or other suitable substrate
• LED light strip
• Light fixture for Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
• Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
  File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg

  Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT
• Digital Thermostat (e.g., HerpStat, Inkbird)
• Spray or misting bottle
• Large, shallow water dish
• Spring water, or tap water dechlorinator
• A complete vitamin supplement (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus)

Recommended:

• UVB light strip (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller Pro 7%)
• Analog or digital light timer
• Live plants
• Hides (i.e., cork bark, driftwood, large stones, terra cotta pots or pieces, coconut huts)
• Kitchen scale for weight tracking

Enclosure

A 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure, or a 20-gallon long aquarium is suitable for a single adult female frog. A 20"x10"x12" 10-gallon aquarium or larger is suitable for a single adult male frog. Adequate enclosures provide ample space for movement and burrowing. The enclosure should have a tight-fitting lid to prevent escape. Lids made of mesh, glass, or a combination of the two may be used to ensure adequate humidity is maintained.

Features

The enclosure should include

• Substrate
• Lighting
• Heating (with a thermostat to monitor and control temperature)
• Water dish
• Hides
• Live plants

File:Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa.jpg

Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa

Substrate

A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have about 3 inches inches (~8 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.

Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- should be avoided as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to impaction.

Lighting

Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a consistent day/night cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.

Temperature

Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, prolapse, organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid desiccation or overheating.

File:Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro.jpg

Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro

Heating

Use a deep heat projector ("DHP") or ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") connected to an automatic controller with a built-in thermostat to provide heat.

File:Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata).jpg

Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget

To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source.

Humidity

Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure daily and ensuring the substrate remains moist but not waterlogged. Substrate should feel wet to the touch, but release only a few drops of water if a handful is squeezed. Substrate should be turned over and mixed frequently (i.e., daily) to ensure even moisture distribution and prevent anaerobic bacteria and/or fungus buildup.

Water Dish

Pacman Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. Adult Pacmans cannot swim or climb very well and are prone to drowning. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed when it appears soiled, and at least daily. The water dish should only be filled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or other impurities that may be dangerous to the Pacman frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water should be avoided as they will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.

Hides

Pieces of hardwood, driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.

File:Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime 2.jpg

Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime

Plants

Sturdy plants like Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots (above or below the substrate level) to prevent the frog from digging them up.

Cleaning

Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once per month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.

The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.

Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.

Gallery

• Cornuta.png

  Ceratophrys cornuta

• Cranwelli.png

  Ceratophrys cranwelli

• Fantasy.png

  Ceratophrys cranwelli x cornuta "Fantasy"

• Ornata-2.png

  Ceratophrys ornata

• Stolzmanni.png

  Ceratophrys stolzmanni

Feeding & Supplementation

Pacman Frogs should be provided a varied diet including Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides.

Feeders should always be dusted with calcium to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease and hypocalcemia. If UVB is not being offered, feeders should be dusted with supplement powder containing Vitamin D3, such as Repashy Calcium Plus.

Feeders with hard exoskeletons, such as crickets and mealworms, should be fed occasionally - not as staples. Avoid larger feeders to prevent impaction. Avoid feeding live rodents or avians to prevent injury to the frog. Frozen (and later thawed) prey items are recommended to avoid risk of parasites.

Feeders should never be wider than the distance between the Pacman's eyes. After consuming a large prey item, a frog may need several days, or even a couple of weeks to digest.

Feeding schedule

Froglets

Juveniles (< 6 months old) should be fed every other day -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if feeding with tongs, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.

Juveniles

Juvenile Pacman Frogs (6-12 months old) should be fed every 3 days -- as much as they will eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if feeding by tongs, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Anything not eaten should be removed. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking.

Adults

Feed adult Pacman Frogs (>12 months) every 5-10 days, as much as they'll eat in a 10-15 minute sitting if tong-feeding, or overnight if leaving prey items in the enclosure. Staple foods include crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, nightcrawlers, and silversides dusted with a complete vitamin. Feeders should be cut into smaller individual pieces to avoid choking. Be sure to remove any uneaten food.

Note that overfeeding can lead to obesity and Fatty Liver Disease. Adjust the feeding schedule and amount based on the frog's size and condition.

Healthy adult Pacman frogs should be slightly longer than they are wide.

References

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