Editing Whites Tree Frog Care

{{Animal infobox
|name=White's Tree Frog
|image=[[File:Green Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea) (8691380381).jpg|center|400px]]
|aka= ''
*Dumpy Tree Frog
*Australian Green Tree Frog
|scientificName=''Litoria caerulea''
|geoDist=Australia, New Guinea
|discovered=1790 (''White'')
|size=3.0-4.5 inches (7-11.5 cm)
|behavior=''
*Arboreal
*Nocturnal.
|careLevel=Easy
|minEnclosure=18"x18"x24" (45x45x60cm)
|substrate=''
*[[ABG mix]]
*Paper towel
*Filter foam
|temperature=''
*Day: 80-90°F (27-32°C)
*Night: No lower than 65°F (18°C)
|humidity=30-50%
|food=''
*Crickets
*Dubia roaches
|supplements=Repashy Calcium Plus
}}

'''<big>White's Tree Frog (''Litoria caerulea)''</big>'''
==== Description ====
The White's Tree Frog (also known as the "Dumpy tree frog", "Australian Green Tree Frog", or abbreviated "WTF") is a common tree frog native to Australia and New Guinea that is hardy, beginner-friendly, and beloved by both first-time frogkeepers and longtime hobbyists alike for their adorable, round appearance.

==== Appearance ====
White's Tree Frogs average 3-4.5 inches (7-11.5 cm) in length as adults, and display colors in a range of greens, blues, greys, yellows, and browns  - sometimes with a white speckled pattern referred to as "snowflake". White's Tree Frogs may also change color depending on genetics, mood, health, and temperature. Their drought-resistant skin feels much drier to the touch than other tree frogs, and has a rubbery texture. With proper care, they can live 16 years or more in captivity.<ref>White’s tree frog. Smithsonian’s National Zoo and Conservation Biology Institute. (n.d.). https://nationalzoo.si.edu/animals/whites-tree-frog</ref>

====Behavior====
The White's Tree Frog is a '''nocturnal''', '''arboreal''' (tree-dwelling) species that spends most of its day sleeping in perches or above-ground hides. At night these frogs come down from their resting places at night to soak in water or hunt. White's Tree Frogs are avid climbers that will take occupy vertical space and branches.

With adequate space and food, they can be '''safely kept in groups''' of similarly-sized frogs. When keeping multiple adult frogs in one enclosure, add about 10 gallons of additional space per frog.

==== Sexing ====
Adult female White's Tree Frogs are usually larger and heavier than males. Both male and female White's Tree Frogs may vocalize, but males can be distinguished by their loud, persistent calling that may begin as early as six months old. Males are generally smaller than females and are distinguished by throat discoloration, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs.<ref>Teresa A. Bradley, Kevin Wright; [https://meridian.allenpress.com/jhms/article/10/2/21/137265/Captive-Care-and-Breeding-of-White-s-Tree-Frog Captive Care and Breeding of White's Tree Frog], ''Pelodryas caerulea''. "Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery" 1 January 2000; 10 (2): 21–25. doi: https://doi.org/10.5818/1529-9651.10.2.21</ref> It may be difficult or impossible to reliably differentiate males from females before males begin calling or develop nuptial pads.
==Care==
[[File:White Tree Frog Care Image v7.0.0 Cheat Sheet .jpg|alt=White Tree Frog Care Image v7.0.0 Cheat Sheet |thumb|400x400px|White Tree Frog Care Image v7.0.0 Cheat Sheet. Includes important aspects of care. Does not include everything. ]]
White's Tree Frogs are beginner-friendly frogs that are easier to care for than most amphibians due to their preference for lower humidity and tolerance of common early mistakes.

Provide a clean, well-ventilated, and adequately sized enclosure with proper heating and humidity and this species will thrive.

===Enclosure===
18"x18"x24" (45x45x60 cm) is considered the minimum for one adult frog. 

When keeping multiple adult frogs in one enclosure, add about 10 gallons of space per additional frog.
====Features====
Suitable enclosures will have a mesh lid to keep humidity low, as well as climbing features, a shallow water dish, and basking spot - a perch or tall branch wide enough to support an adult frog is suitable. 
====Substrate====
Paper Towel, Foam, and Bioactive substrates are all appropriate setups for White's Tree Frogs.

Bioactive substrates should be free from large chunks that may be accidentally ingested during feeding. A wide range of substrates are acceptable, but must be topped with leaf litter to avoid sticking to the frog's skin and causing irritation.

A Paper Towel-style enclosure with no substrate, lined with paper towels or butcher paper is a preferred method for quarantining new frogs, and closely monitoring young froglets or sick frogs. Paper towels should be changed every other day to prevent bacteria buildup. This method is also suitable for long-term care as it provides a sterile environment to observe evidence of bowel movements and (with frequent replacement) may reduce the chances of bacterial infection. 

Frog Foam and bioactive substrates are normally preferred for display tanks and usually require less maintenance than Paper Towel enclosures.[[File:Ranoidea caerulea (White, 1790) 2423542196.jpg|alt=Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea|left|thumb|Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea]]

====Lighting====
Provide 5% UVB light on a 12-hour on/off cycle. Full-spectrum LED lighting may also be provided to support live plants, but must also be kept on a 12-hour day/night cycle as White's Tree Frogs are most active at night.
====Temperature====
White's Tree Frogs are healthiest in a warm environment. Use a ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") or deep heat projection ("DHP") bulb connected to a controller with a digital thermostat to maintain 80-90°F (27-32°C) at the top of the enclosure, down to about 75°F (24°C) near the bottom. This gives frogs the ability to self-regulate their temperature by moving to warmer or cooler spots as needed.<ref>[https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100091653415693 D&J Exotics].</ref>

Temperatures may drop up to 10°F at night, but should never get below 65°F (18°C) at the bottom of the enclosure.

The ceramic heat emitter may be left on 24/7 since it does not emit visible light, however if using a DHP bulb, be sure to cycle the fixture off at night. Other heat sources (such as heat pads or reptile basking lamps) are not required nor recommended.

To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, '''always''' use a controller with a thermostat when providing a heat source.
[[File:Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea (c) Rod Lowther.jpg|alt=Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea|thumb|Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea © [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/73590179 Rod Lowther]]]

====Humidity====
Maintain humidity levels between 30-50% for adult frogs. Misting or spraying the enclosure is not recommended (despite conflicting information online) as White's Tree Frogs are prone to bacterial infection caused by excessive moisture.

Instead, provide spring or dechlorinated water in a large, shallow water dish to allow the frog to seek moisture when needed. The water dish should be changed daily, and deep cleaned at least weekly.

In arid environments (i.e., Southwestern United States) spray or mist sparingly with spring or dechlorinated water, only as needed to achieve target humidity. 

Juvenile and recently-morphed froglets should be provided 40-50% humidity.

Water features, while aesthetically pleasing, can harbor bacteria and are prone to mechanical failures that may require frequent maintenance. Expert caretakers recommend avoiding water features for these reasons.

==== Water Dish ====
White's Tree Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed daily or when soiled, and refilled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or chemicals that are dangerous for the frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water are too pure and will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.

==== Hides ====
Pieces of hardwood or driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.

==== Plants ====
Sturdy, drought-resistant plants like snakeplants or Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots or fixed to branches and allowed to trail or vine.

Artificial plants may also be provided, but should be carefully selected to avoid sharp plastic edges and dyes common among cheaply manufactured options.
[[File:Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea - (c) dodoburd.jpg|alt=Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea - (c) dodoburd|thumb|Australian Green Tree Frog Ranoidea caerulea - (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/197302000 dodoburd]]]

=== Cleaning ===
Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once a month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.

The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.

Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.

== Feeding & Supplementation ==
White's Tree Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, and [[Nightcrawler|nightcrawlers]]. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins, and should be about the same size as the space between the frog's eyes. Larger prey poses a risk of choking, failure to feed, or injury.

Provide feeders at night, and remove uneaten food until the next scheduled feeding to avoid injury to the frog.

If more than 2-3 feeders remain after 24 hours, reduce the amount fed until few or no feeders remain after a 24-hour duration.

===Feeding Schedule===

===== Froglets / Babies =====
White's Tree Froglets (<6 months old) should be fed 10-15 dusted small feeders daily, or as much as they can eat overnight.

==== Juveniles ====
Juvenile White's Tree Frogs (6-12 months old) should be fed 6-8 dusted medium feeders every other day.

==== Adults ====
Feed adult frogs (>12 months) three to four dusted large crickets or dubia roaches twice per week.<ref>White’s tree frog. Avian & Exotic Animal Hospital of Georgia. (n.d.). https://www.avianexotichospital.com/whites-tree-frog.html</ref>

===Supplementation===
All feeders should be dusted with a complete supplement, that includes Calcium and Vitamin D3 (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus).
==References==
<references />


[[Category:Care Guides]]

{{DISPLAYTITLE:White's Tree Frog Care}}

{{#seo:|title=How to Care for a Pet White's Tree Frog}}
{{#seo:|keywords=White's Tree Frog, Dumpy Tree Frog, frog, pet, care, guide}}
{{#seo:|description=Looking for information about how to care for a White's Tree Frog? This expert guide includes information about White's Tree Frog setup, food, temperature, humidity, and care.}}