Editing Pacman Frog Care Guide (section)

==Care==
[[File:Pacman Frog Care Image 4.0.jpg|alt=Cheat sheet for some of the most important aspects of care. Is not all encompassing.|thumb|Cheat sheet for some of the most important aspects of care. Is not all encompassing. ]]
Pacman Frogs require Easy / Moderate care due to their specific humidity, temperature, and substrate maintenance needs. A clean, stable environment ensures their health, longevity, and quality of life. With proper care, they can live 15 years or more in captivity.  

=== Shopping list===

==== Selecting a healthy frog ====
When selecting a Pacman frog, check to ensure it is alert and that the eyes are clear, without visible infection or cataracts. The skin should be free of any wounds, lacerations, or blemishes. Avoid any frogs that appear bloated, malnourished, lethargic, or unresponsive to stimuli.

'''Required:'''
*20-gallon long aquarium, or 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure
*Tight-fitting enclosure lid
*[[Coco coir]], or other suitable substrate
*LED light strip
*Light fixture for [[Ceramic Heat Emitter]] ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb
*Ceramic Heat Emitter ("CHE") or Deep Heat Projection ("DHP") bulb [[File:Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT.jpg|alt=Amazonian Horned Frog Ceratophrys cornuta (c) Sébastien SANT|thumb|Amazonian Horned Frog ''Ceratophrys cornuta'' (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/70681316 Sébastien SANT]]]
*Digital Thermostat (e.g., HerpStat, Inkbird)
*Spray or misting bottle
*Large, shallow water dish
*Spring water, or tap [[water dechlorinator]]
*A complete vitamin supplement (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus)
''Recommended:''

*[[UVB light]] strip (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller Pro 7%)
*Analog or digital light timer
*Live plants
*Hides (i.e., cork bark, driftwood, large stones, terra cotta pots or pieces, coconut huts)
*Kitchen scale for weight tracking
===Enclosure===
A 30"x12"x12" (75x30x30cm) or larger front-opening enclosure, or a 20-gallon long aquarium is suitable for a single adult female frog. A 20"x10"x12" 10-gallon aquarium or larger is suitable for a single adult male frog. Adequate enclosures provide ample space for movement and burrowing. The enclosure should have a '''<u>tight-fitting lid</u>''' to prevent escape. Lids made of mesh, glass, or a combination of the two may be used to ensure adequate humidity is maintained.  

====Features====
The enclosure should include 
* Substrate
* Lighting
* Heating (with a thermostat to monitor and control temperature)
* Water dish
* Hides
* Live plants
[[File:Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa.jpg|alt=Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa|left|thumb|Venezuelan Horned Frog Ceratophrys calcarata (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/144061808 Andrés Camilo Montes-Correa]]]

====Substrate====
A Pacman Frog's enclosure should have about 3 inches inches (~8 cm) of substrate. Coco coir is an ideal substrate for maintaining the high humidity levels required by Pacman Frogs.   

Substrate should be very fine and deep enough for the frog to burrow. Substrates with large particles -- such as chips, pebbles, charcoal -- '''<u>''should be avoided''</u>''' as they could be accidentally ingested during feeding, and lead to [[impaction]].   
====Lighting====
Special lighting is not required, but an LED light strip, or other affordable light fixture should be used to maintain a consistent day/night cycle of 12 hours on and 12 hours off. UVB may be offered to simulate natural sunlight and ensure adequate production of Vitamin D3. However, UVB is not required if the frog is receiving adequate dietary Vitamin D3.  
==== Temperature====
Temperature should be maintained in the 80-85°F (27-29°C), with 83°F (28°C) being ideal. Inadequate temperatures may result in reduced digestion, lack of appetite, impaction, [[prolapse]], organ failure, and/or death. Thermostats should be monitored and maintained to avoid [[desiccation]] or overheating.
[[File:Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro.jpg|alt=Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) edson-ribeiro|thumb|Brazilian Horned Frog Ceratophrys aurita - (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/111554640 edson-ribeiro]]]
===== Heating =====
Use a deep heat projector ("DHP") or ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") connected to an automatic controller with a built-in thermostat to provide heat. 

[[File:Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata).jpg|alt=Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget|thumb|Bell's Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata) © Leonel Roget]]

To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller when providing a heat source. 
====Humidity====
Maintain humidity levels between 60-80%. This can be achieved by misting the enclosure daily and ensuring the substrate remains moist but not waterlogged. Substrate should feel wet to the touch, but release only a few drops of water if a handful is squeezed. Substrate should be turned over and mixed frequently (i.e., daily) to ensure even moisture distribution and prevent anaerobic bacteria and/or fungus buildup.
==== Water Dish ====
Pacman Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. Adult Pacmans cannot swim or climb very well and are prone to drowning. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed when it appears soiled, and at least daily. The water dish should only be filled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or other impurities that may be dangerous to the Pacman frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water should be avoided as they will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.

==== Hides ====
Pieces of hardwood, driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.
[[File:Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime 2.jpg|alt=Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) Damián Ganime|thumb|Chacoan Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli (c) [https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/102689094 Damián Ganime]]]

==== Plants ====
Sturdy plants like Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots (above or below the substrate level) to prevent the frog from digging them up.

=== Cleaning ===
Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once per month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.   

The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.   

Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.   


====Gallery====
<gallery style="text-align:center" widths="250" spacing="small" captionsize="large" bordersize="medium" perrow="2">
File:Cornuta.png|''[[Ceratophrys cornuta]]''
File:Cranwelli.png|''[[Ceratophrys cranwelli]]''
File:Fantasy.png|''[[Fantasy Pacman Frog|Ceratophrys cranwelli x cornuta'' "Fantasy]]"
File:Ornata-2.png|''[[Ceratophrys ornata]]''
File:Stolzmanni.png|''[[Ceratophrys stolzmanni]]''
</gallery>