Whites Tree Frog Care
| Whites Tree Frog Care | |
|---|---|
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| Common name | White's Tree Frog |
| Also known as |
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| Scientific name | Litoria caerulea |
| Geographical distribution | Australia, New Guinea |
| Discovered | 1790 (White) |
| Size | 3.0-4.5 inches (7-11.5 cm) |
| Behavior |
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| Care level | Easy |
| Minimum enclosure size | 18"x18"x24" (45x45x60cm) |
| Substrate |
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| Temperature |
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| Humidity | 30-50% |
| Food |
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| Supplements | Repashy Calcium Plus |
White's Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea)
Description[edit | edit source]
The White's Tree Frog (also known as the "Dumpy tree frog", "Australian Green Tree Frog", or abbreviated "WTF") is a common tree frog native to Australia and New Guinea that is hardy, beginner-friendly, and beloved by both first-time frogkeepers and longtime hobbyists alike for their adorable, round appearance.
Appearance[edit | edit source]
White's Tree Frogs average 3-4.5 inches (7-11.5 cm) in length as adults, and display colors in a range of greens, blues, greys, yellows, and browns - sometimes with a white speckled pattern referred to as "snowflake". White's Tree Frogs may also change color depending on genetics, mood, health, and temperature. Their drought-resistant skin feels much drier to the touch than other tree frogs, and has a rubbery texture. With proper care, they can live 16 years or more in captivity.[1]
Behavior[edit | edit source]
The White's Tree Frog is a nocturnal, arboreal (tree-dwelling) species that spends most of its day sleeping in perches or above-ground hides. At night these frogs come down from their resting places at night to soak in water or hunt. White's Tree Frogs are avid climbers that will take occupy vertical space and branches.
With adequate space and food, they can be safely kept in groups of similarly-sized frogs. When keeping multiple adult frogs in one enclosure, add about 10 gallons of additional space per frog.
Sexing[edit | edit source]
Adult female White's Tree Frogs are usually larger and heavier than males. Both male and female White's Tree Frogs may vocalize, but males can be distinguished by their loud, persistent calling that may begin as early as six months old. Males are generally smaller than females and are distinguished by throat discoloration, as well as nuptial pads near the first digits of their front legs.[2] It may be difficult or impossible to reliably differentiate males from females before males begin calling or develop nuptial pads.
Care[edit | edit source]
White's Tree Frogs are beginner-friendly frogs that are easier to care for than most amphibians due to their preference for lower humidity and tolerance of common early mistakes.
Provide a clean, well-ventilated, and adequately sized enclosure with proper heating and humidity and this species will thrive.
Enclosure[edit | edit source]
18"x18"x24" (45x45x60 cm) is considered the minimum for one adult frog.
When keeping multiple adult frogs in one enclosure, add about 10 gallons of space per additional frog.
Features[edit | edit source]
Suitable enclosures will have a mesh lid to keep humidity low, as well as climbing features, a shallow water dish, and basking spot - a perch or tall branch wide enough to support an adult frog is suitable.
Substrate[edit | edit source]
Paper Towel, Foam, and Bioactive substrates are all appropriate setups for White's Tree Frogs.
Bioactive substrates should be free from large chunks that may be accidentally ingested during feeding. A wide range of substrates are acceptable, but must be topped with leaf litter to avoid sticking to the frog's skin and causing irritation.
A Paper Towel-style enclosure with no substrate, lined with paper towels or butcher paper is a preferred method for quarantining new frogs, and closely monitoring young froglets or sick frogs. Paper towels should be changed every other day to prevent bacteria buildup. This method is also suitable for long-term care as it provides a sterile environment to observe evidence of bowel movements and (with frequent replacement) may reduce the chances of bacterial infection.
Frog Foam and bioactive substrates are normally preferred for display tanks and usually require less maintenance than Paper Towel enclosures.
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Lighting[edit | edit source]
Provide 5% UVB light on a 12-hour on/off cycle. Full-spectrum LED lighting may also be provided to support live plants, but must also be kept on a 12-hour day/night cycle as White's Tree Frogs are most active at night.
Temperature[edit | edit source]
White's Tree Frogs are healthiest in a warm environment. Use a ceramic heat emitter ("CHE") or deep heat projection ("DHP") bulb connected to a controller with a digital thermostat to maintain 80-90°F (27-32°C) at the top of the enclosure, down to about 75°F (24°C) near the bottom. This gives frogs the ability to self-regulate their temperature by moving to warmer or cooler spots as needed.[3]
Temperatures may drop up to 10°F at night, but should never get below 65°F (18°C) at the bottom of the enclosure.
The ceramic heat emitter may be left on 24/7 since it does not emit visible light, however if using a DHP bulb, be sure to cycle the fixture off at night. Other heat sources (such as heat pads or reptile basking lamps) are not required nor recommended.
To avoid fatal desiccation or overheating, always use a controller with a thermostat when providing a heat source.
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Humidity[edit | edit source]
Maintain humidity levels between 30-50% for adult frogs. Misting or spraying the enclosure is not recommended (despite conflicting information online) as White's Tree Frogs are prone to bacterial infection caused by excessive moisture.
Instead, provide spring or dechlorinated water in a large, shallow water dish to allow the frog to seek moisture when needed. The water dish should be changed daily, and deep cleaned at least weekly.
In arid environments (i.e., Southwestern United States) spray or mist sparingly with spring or dechlorinated water, only as needed to achieve target humidity.
Juvenile and recently-morphed froglets should be provided 40-50% humidity.
Water features, while aesthetically pleasing, can harbor bacteria and are prone to mechanical failures that may require frequent maintenance. Expert caretakers recommend avoiding water features for these reasons.
Water Dish[edit | edit source]
White's Tree Frogs should be provided a large, shallow water dish. The water dish should be large enough for the frog to soak and excrete waste. The water dish should be changed daily or when soiled, and refilled with spring or dechlorinated tap water. Untreated tap water may contain chlorine, chloramines, or chemicals that are dangerous for the frog. Reverse osmosis (R.O.) and distilled water are too pure and will deplete the frog of electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals.
Hides[edit | edit source]
Pieces of hardwood or driftwood, or cork bark should be added to the enclosure to provide cover. Coconut huts, large stones, or pieces of terra cotta may be used as well.
Plants[edit | edit source]
Sturdy, drought-resistant plants like snakeplants or Pothos may be provided for additional enrichment. Plants may be kept in pots or fixed to branches and allowed to trail or vine.
Artificial plants may also be provided, but should be carefully selected to avoid sharp plastic edges and dyes common among cheaply manufactured options.
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Cleaning[edit | edit source]
Substrate should be spot cleaned daily to remove bowel movements. Change substrate out at least once a month, or sooner if the substrate begins emitting a foul odor.
The water dish should be cleaned and replenished daily with spring or dechlorinated tap water.
Maintaining a clean enclosure will prevent most health issues. Frequently cleaning the enclosure with a reptile/amphibian-safe disinfectant can provide an additional layer of protection against bacteria and fungi.
Feeding & Supplementation[edit | edit source]
White's Tree Frogs should be provided a varied diet including crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, and nightcrawlers. Feeders should be dusted and/or gutloaded to ensure the frog is receiving adequate calcium and vitamins, and should be about the same size as the space between the frog's eyes. Larger prey poses a risk of choking, failure to feed, or injury.
Provide feeders at night, and remove uneaten food until the next scheduled feeding to avoid injury to the frog.
If more than 2-3 feeders remain after 24 hours, reduce the amount fed until few or no feeders remain after a 24-hour duration.
Feeding Schedule[edit | edit source]
Froglets / Babies[edit | edit source]
White's Tree Froglets (<6 months old) should be fed 10-15 dusted small feeders daily, or as much as they can eat overnight.
Juveniles[edit | edit source]
Juvenile White's Tree Frogs (6-12 months old) should be fed 6-8 dusted medium feeders every other day.
Adults[edit | edit source]
Feed adult frogs (>12 months) three to four dusted large crickets or dubia roaches twice per week.[4]
Supplementation[edit | edit source]
All feeders should be dusted with a complete supplement, that includes Calcium and Vitamin D3 (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus).
References[edit | edit source]
- ↑ White’s tree frog. Smithsonian’s National Zoo and Conservation Biology Institute. (n.d.). https://nationalzoo.si.edu/animals/whites-tree-frog
- ↑ Teresa A. Bradley, Kevin Wright; Captive Care and Breeding of White's Tree Frog, Pelodryas caerulea. "Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery" 1 January 2000; 10 (2): 21–25. doi: https://doi.org/10.5818/1529-9651.10.2.21
- ↑ D&J Exotics.
- ↑ White’s tree frog. Avian & Exotic Animal Hospital of Georgia. (n.d.). https://www.avianexotichospital.com/whites-tree-frog.html
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